My '03 'Hoe.

Since the gas is priced at €1.65 per liter, american car owner feed their cars with liquid petrol gas (LPG). It's cheaper and even if the mileage is lower with LPG rather than petrol, it's worth it.

That's why above the gas filling hole there a plug to fill another tank with gaz.This tank is located instead of the spare wheel.

What's wrong with this system is the temperature of the engine is higher when running with gas rather than petrol. Worse, it's a little bit "dryer" than gas. This oil is naturraly aspirated and burned with the LGP. It helps the valves not to burn or be micro-welded to the head gasket.
I'm going out and doing some pics for you.

May be this will help : http://www.prinsautogas.com/en/

---------- Post added at 05:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:52 PM ----------

This is my LPG tank :

It's located instead of the spare wheel.


The liquid gas arrive there, on the passenger side of the engine bay:


This stuff transform liquid ga to vapor gas.

Then it's managed by those injectors:

(driver side shown - passenger side identical lol).

Who are plugged to the intake manifold:

(image show one of the rubber hose going to the manifold)

A view from my engine bay:


The FlashLube is meant to be lower than the vapor-making item so the mechanic fixed it on the driver side. there was no more room on the passenger side. But there is a rubber hose that goes from the oil reservoir to the intake something juste under the plastic cover:


I don't know where it goes but it works.

As I said, mechanically, it's at least fine now. Others stuff will be cosmetical. May be i'll add an CAI, but I can't find what's the difference between grenn and red filters. And I'd like a black pie instead of a chormed one.

Dang man, glad I don't live over there and have to do all of that stuff just because of the spendy gas!! Thanks for all the pics, it all makes sense now, just sucks that you have to do all of that!!

Yep. Next step is this afternoon, my wife and I will try to swap the steering intermediate shaft that's clunkin' .

Tom Joad said:

Yep. Next step is this afternoon, my wife and I will try to swap the steering intermediate shaft that's clunkin' .

Click to expand...

How were you able to troubleshoot the steering intermediate shaft?I have a clunk to and I dont know if its the steering shaft or what.

I didn't troubleshoot it.
I just browse through many forums and find out that many users had this clunk noise caused by the upper shaft. In fact, It's acting like a strut or a shock and hte noise come from the fact that the grease it was fullfilled with is long gone.

It seems to be taken under warranty in the US.

I buy the part on Rockauto.com. It's a Doorman part.



Remove the lower screw, remove the upper screw, pull it forn the inside.
Seems easy even for DIY beginner.

First bolt to undo :

There is a bold retainer. Only one bracket is necessary to release the screw there.

Loosen the bold. It's metric. 15mm.






Go under the dash:
Behind the pedals you can see the upper head of the shaft (with the white X). The bolt is just above it.


It's better with the flash:



See the retainer? Nice thought when engineered!
Remove it too.

When starting to work, be sure the wheels are fully centered. Sadly It may means the bolt under the dash to be not in the perfect position. It doesn't matter.
release the lower end of the shaft from the lower intermediary shaft so it can rotate freely, then turn the steering wheel until you have good access to the bold.







Use your finger to push toward the firewall to release it from the steering wheel assembly:




If not done before, disconnect it from the lower shaft:


remove the shaft from the inside:


Old and new:

The new shaft is hard to extend when the old one come and go freely.

The firewall hole through which will pass the new shaft.


Put the new shaft through the firwall: connect it to the lower shaft.
Then, come back inside, extend it and connect it to the sw (steering wheel).
I've read that the sw must not be rotated during process otherwise the wheel and steering wouldn't be synchronised: that's BS!

There's only two position. If the sw is upside down, it means you choosen the wrong one. lol
If that's the case, remove the bold, rotate the sw half turn (whatever CW or CCW) and re-bold it.

Check all bolds are tighten as they should be and don't forget to use a small amount of Loctite 243 Threadlocker on bold threads.

It was so nice I drove it until my automotive tools dealer to buy missing tools I need to change the brake pads this week-end.

Next thing to do is determine if I have a cabin filter and if so, clean it until I change it.

I decided to change my brake pads.
Don't know how often I'm supposed to change them. Thei were changed last year. ONe year and 6k miles after I've got to change them again.

Jack, jackstands and wrench everything is ready. Remove the wheel.



The state of the pads:


Two screws are holding the pads bracket:


It's Torx T55.






Open up the bracket:


It was about time!


Brakes are important. I took a well-known brand at RockAuto:


Break cleaner to remove dust:


Antirattle parts are included:



Thickness:


Open the reservoir before pushing the piston back. It'll make the piston push easier.

If the level has been made after betwwen pads change, then it will overflow when pushing the pistons back. Take a seringe and remove some of the liquid before pushing the pistons back.

That' how I did pushing the pistons back:


My C-clamp wasn't wide enough to to it the official way.
trying this way is useless. The free piston will pop out each time you'll push the otherone.



Pads are not identical!


The one with only one metal part goes on the inside.The pair of pads shown here are goint to the driver side.
Get rid of the old pads:



How does it looks from the inside :

Remove the old anti-rattle clips :


Warning; both side are not identical!


Install the metal clips:


then the pads


Put hte bracket back down, tighten the bol to the specified torque.

Check : that's bettter indeed !


Pump on the brake pedal in odrer to get the pads the closest to the disk before starting your vehicle.

Then I tried to change them on the driver side. Sadly The torx screw is really tightened and I stop before I destroyed the head.

the bolts i was mentioning earlier are the main bracket bolts to the left next to the CV axel you can take those free and the entire caliper off if that torkes will not budge and do ad i described earlier

I've seen I 've never put here the picture of the sticker I have in my glove box with all the options.



AJ1 Glass, Solar-Ray deep tinted
AJ7 Air bags, dual-stage frontal and side-impact, driver and right-front passenger
AL0 Passenger Sensing System
AL6 RESTRAINT CARGO 960315 E 0 E A
AN3 Seats, front bucket with leather seating surfaces
AP9 Cargo net, full-across rear
AS3 Seats, third row 50/50 split-bench with vinyl
AT5 Seats, second row 60/40 split-folding bench with leather seating surfaces
AU8 Remote Function Actuation, Specific Frequency
AXP VIN IDENT POSITION, MULTI-PURPOSE VEHICLE
AX4 European Seats Restraints
A04 Windshield Tinted, Less Upper Shadeband
A31 Windows, power
BAG Parts Package For Overseas Shipping.
BVE Running boards, color-keyed to exterior
B30 Floor Covering, Carpet
B58 Floor mats, carpeted front and rear
B71 Wheel flares, front and rear, large, body-color
B85 Moldings, bodyside, color-keyed
CJ3 Air conditioning, dual-zone, manual
CT1 Country, Belgium
C25 Wiper, rear intermittent
C36 Heater, rear auxiliary
C49 Defogger, rear-window
C5H GVWR, 6900 lbs. (3130 kg)
C69 Air conditioning, rear auxiliary
DF5 Mirror, inside rearview, electrochromic
DH2 Visors, driver and front passenger illuminated vanity mirrors
DK7 Console, overhead deluxe
DR4 MIRROR O/S LH & RH, REMOTE CONTROL, ELECTRIC, HEATED, LT SENSITIVE, POWER FOLDING, COLOR
DT4 Ashtray and lighter
D55 Console, Front Compartment, Floor
EXP Export, International Sales
E2C ORDER TO DELIVERY EXPEDITE TO CUSTOMER
E52 Body Equipment One-Piece Lift Gate With Lift Glass
FK2 Arm LH Torsion Bar Spring Adj (A)
FK3 Arm RH Torsion Bar Spring Adj (B)
GT4 Rear axle, 3.73 ratio
G69 Level Control Auto, Air, HD
G80 Differential, heavy-duty locking rear
JAN Janesville Assembly
JC4 Brakes, 4-wheel antilock, 4-wheel disc
JF4 Pedals, power-adjustable
J81 Export Fog Lamp Switch
KG3 Alternator, 145 amps
KNP Cooling, external transmission oil cooler
KUP Throttle control, electronic
K34 Cruise Control: Automatic, Electronic
K47 Air cleaner, high-capacity
K53 Enhanced Fuel Sender – International
LM7 Engine, Vortec 5.3L V8 SFI
MAE Marketing Area Code Europe
M30 Transmission – 4 Speed Auto W/ Electric Controls L.D. (Hydra-Matic 4L60-E)
NP5 Steering wheel, 3-spoke leather-wrapped
NP7 Steering Column EEC Approved
NP8 Transfer case, active, 2-speed, Autotrac
NT3 Emission System EEC OO
NZZ Sales Package, Skid Plate, Off Road Sport
N12 Rear Exit Tail Pipe
PDC Cruise Control and Remote Keyless Entry Package, Seat adjuster, driver 8-way power, Technology Package, includes UV6 heads-up display and RCA cargo area audio controls
PF4 Wheels, 4 – 16″ x 7″ (40.6 cm x 17.8 cm) 6-lug bright-machined aluminum
QMJ Tires, P265/70R16, all-season touring, blackwall
R9Z CONTROL SALES ITEM NO.100
SAF Tire carrier, lockable outside spare
SLM SALES PROCESSING STOCK ORDERS
SLT Equipment Chevrolet ‘LT’ Sales Package
TR2 Side Repeater Lamp
TR6 Headlamp Leveling Device
T2H Ornamentation Exterior, Export Unique Requirements
T2J Ornamentation Interior, Export Unique Requirements
T62 Lighting, Daytime Running, Delete
T79 Lamp Fog, RR
T84 Headlamps – Right Hand Rule Of Road, E Marked (China, Former Soviet Union)
T89 Lamp – Tail and Stop, Export
T96 Fog lamps, front (MSRP = $125.00)
T98 STAMPING VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER
UC2 Speedometer: Instrument, Kilometers & Miles, Kilometer Odometer, Positive Bias
UC6 Audio system, AM/FM stereo with 6-disc CD changer
UK3 Steering wheel controls, mounted audio controls
UL2 Radio, Frequencies, European
UQ7 Audio system feature, Bose premium speaker system.
VB3 Bumper, rear chrome
VC5 Label Shipping, Except for US, US Possessions, Or Japan
VD1 European Provision
VG3 Bumper, front chrome
VJ3 Lable, Plate – ECE Approval And VIN
VPH Vehicle Preparation Overseas Delivery
VR7 Rear Recovering Towing Hook
VXS Vehicle Complete
VZ2 Calibration, Speedometer A
V1K Luggage rack, roof-mounted, Black
V22 Grille insert, bright chrome
V54 Luggage rack side rails, roof-mounted, Black
V76 Recovery hooks, front, frame-mounted
V78 Vehicle Statement Delete
V92 Trailering equipment, 3500 lb. (1588 kg)
XMJ P265/70R16-111S AL2 BW – Front
X88 Conversion Name Plate — CHEVROLET
YD3 Differential, driver-selectable locking rear
YD6 Rear Spring, Base Equipment
YE9 Convenience Package Comfort and Decor Level #3
YMJ P265/70R16-111S AL2 BW – Rear
ZMJ P265/70R16-111S AL2 BW – Spare
ZY1 Color Combination, Solid
Z55 Continously Variable Real Time Damping (CVRTD)
Suspension Package, Autoride
1SN PACKAGE OPTION 13
41U Primary Color Exterior, Black
52I Interior Trim, Light Neutral
522 Seat trim, Tan leather-appointed seating
6XK COMPONENT FRT LH COMPUTER SEL SUSP (6XK) ----> ?
7XK COMPONENT FRT RH COMPUTER SEL SUSP (7XK) ----> ?
522 Seat trim, Tan leather-appointed seating

I don't know what BC/CC means nor U 8555.

K47 : does it mean I'm equipeed with the famous cabin filter?

I should have powerd folding mirror but they are just manually foldable...

Sweet