Wiring Back Doors

oreowizard98 said:

Unless you are running serious power, the stock wiring harness will be fine. Just tap into the harness at the back of the radio. Just my .02c

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I'm going to run a Sundown SAX-100.4 to 1 set of T3 6.5" components in the front and 1 set of T3 5.25" components in the back.

stock wire will not do

how the hell are you going to run 1/0 gauge thru that grommet?

where in the world does it say 1/0?

thehoe92 said:

where in the world does it say 1/0?

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I think that he may have read this post ( 1guage)

thehoe92 said:

sorry correction 1 12 gauge as in positive and negative and 1 gauge positive and negative of RF speaker wire.
I'll mess around with it tomorrow it kind of sucks they did that on these models though

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oh my bad I forgot to put in the 6 its 12 and 16 gauge speaker wire.

and I found my solution.
took each and every individual pin out of the plug put some heatshrink over each plug so they don't short out on each other and plugged the little pins into the smaller clips. only problem is the grommet doesn't really seal up its just in the hole.

I'll have pictures of it tomorrow only got one side done today

so here is my way of wiring up '03+ Tahoe rear doors

you've got the plug aka the problem


just big enough to snap in to the door frame so that means no running after market speaker wire


and not really any room in the plug for 12 gauge connections


but there is room if just the black clips are connected since they are smaller than the actual plug


the pins that need to be pulled out




notice the tabs...


bent them over so some heat shrink would slip over


each pin heat shrunk so nothing can short or ground out






silicone lube and duct tape is your friend for pushing wires through grommets




black plugs all wired up


not exactly water proof but I'll be thinking of a solution soon


the boot was only meant to wrap around the white plug not fit in between the door frame


RCA's, speaker wire, and Rockford Fosgate bass knob


waiting for a home


kinda messy but I still need to mount the crossovers so it will get cleaned up

Not to bad, you not worried about the terminals seperating when opening the door, or vibration? I've been trying to think of a way to wire the doors so i dont have to use the existing wires, but not sure if this is the way.

opening the door won't rip them out because there is no tension its just suspended there.
vibration isn't a problem because when I close the door it kind of seals it together and makes it solid in between the door frame and the plug is floating in the b-pillar so it can't vibrate on anything.

You definitely went the extra mile!

Here is how I did mine; I just drilled out the top 3 empty slots, and the bottom one, (which you have a lot of pics of) - I just drilled that out, and aimed away from the other pins. As you can see, you have ALOT of room to work with if you do it that way.

Only added about 15 mins to the job. I posted earlier that I ran (2) 12ga wires, but I think it was 10ga than I ran for my 530t's.

yup I considered that after you said thats what you did but IMO it was easier for me to do what I did because now I can run a lot more wires if needed.

I'm curious to see what the '00-'02 looks like