OK, since the last time anyone seems to have had this problem was about six months ago, I thought it might be time to start a new thread.
I definitely have this SECURITY / Passlock II issue as well on my 98 Yukon. My situation may be a bit more unique than others though. Hoping some of you can chime in on whether I even need to replace my key sensor since it is already bypassed with a Directed Electronics module (part of my remote start installation).
This morning, I got the dreaded blinking SECURITY light and fuel cutoff indicating a bad Passkey II value sent to the computer. Despite all efforts, I could not get the truck started and had to hitch a ride to work.
About two months ago, I had tore down my remote starter and bypass module wiring. I confirmed that the ignition yellow wire had the same resistance value as my bypass module. I then proceeded with SOLDERING all connections, thinking my problem may have been related to faulty wiring.
The truck ran fine since then and I really believed I had resolved this. However, recently I'm being haunted by this.
So, my questions here are:
Is there any way to confirm without a doubt the resistance value the computer is programmed with outside of testing what the ignition switch has? Maybe I'm off a few ohms...
How does the ignition switch come into play when a bypass module is installed. Isn't that the point of having one - so you don't have to rely on the ignition switch anymore?
If my bypass module is 'dialed-in', why am I still getting a SECURITY light!?
I definitely have this SECURITY / Passlock II issue as well on my 98 Yukon. My situation may be a bit more unique than others though. Hoping some of you can chime in on whether I even need to replace my key sensor since it is already bypassed with a Directed Electronics module (part of my remote start installation).
This morning, I got the dreaded blinking SECURITY light and fuel cutoff indicating a bad Passkey II value sent to the computer. Despite all efforts, I could not get the truck started and had to hitch a ride to work.
About two months ago, I had tore down my remote starter and bypass module wiring. I confirmed that the ignition yellow wire had the same resistance value as my bypass module. I then proceeded with SOLDERING all connections, thinking my problem may have been related to faulty wiring.
The truck ran fine since then and I really believed I had resolved this. However, recently I'm being haunted by this.
So, my questions here are:
Is there any way to confirm without a doubt the resistance value the computer is programmed with outside of testing what the ignition switch has? Maybe I'm off a few ohms...
How does the ignition switch come into play when a bypass module is installed. Isn't that the point of having one - so you don't have to rely on the ignition switch anymore?
If my bypass module is 'dialed-in', why am I still getting a SECURITY light!?