MeanGreen03
Full Access Member
These are the tools you will need:
Grinder with a cutting wheel
Large screw driver
Ratchet with extensions
Torque wrench
18mm socket
15mm wrench
Grease (optional)
Jack
Wood (2x4 or any relatively good sized piece)
Loctite
Shorter M12x1.75 bolts if you don't want the stock longer bolts or if you happen to break any. I would highly recommend purchasing two 80mm length for the core support and save yourself a bit of a headache.
What you will need to purchase:
12 - 1983-2005 s10 blazer body mounts
12 - s10 Retainers (p/n 29-0812 from LMC Truck)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Step 1:
Take all body mount bolts out on one side using 18mm socket. You will need to use the 15mm wrench on the front core support along with the 18mm socket (leave the bolt in). There are 6 on each side (12 total).
Step 2:
Loosen body mounts on the opposite side. You MUST take out the body mount bolt above the panhard bar or else the body will bind when jacking it up.
Step 3:
Jack up the body on the side you removed all of the bolts. I used a 2x4 along the side steps to lift the body.
Remove all of the body mounts on that side.
Step 4:
Remove all of the stock bushings from the metal cups. This is where you will need a large screw driver to pry them off. The bigger, the better as you will get more leverage.
Step 5:
If you put on the s10 top body mount bushing it will look like this (I already cut the shaft down some so it is shorter than what you will see):
The metal cup needs to be cut back to allow more room as you can see it is close to the frame and is very close to rubbing on the inside portion. I cut mine ~1/4":
The shaft needs to be cut level with the bottom of the bushing. The final product will look like this:
With the top s10 bushing on:
Here is one side ready to go:
Note: The bottom right metal cup doesn't have the spacer on top compared to the other 5. I believe these go back on the core support. I wasn't paying attention and didn't catch this until it was too late.
If you are going to be running polyurethane bushings I would highly recommend adding a thin layer of grease on each face of the bushings that will see contact to the metal cup and frame to prevent squeaking.
***I would like to thank Jason (gunther19820 over at s10forum.com) for sending me many pictures with measurements of the stock s10 metal cups so that I could modify my cups. Thank you again Jason!!***
If you want to make it very easy on yourself also purchase 12 s10 metal cups and it will save you a whole lot of time so you don't have to modify the stock cups.
Step 6:
Put the top metal cup/bushing back into the frame. The long oval part of the metal shaft faces front to back. This is what the new modified cup and top bushing will look like:
Make sure there are no hoses, wires, etc. to be pinched/smashed and if so move them as necessary. Lower the vehicle slowly back down once all 6 have been installed. Put the bolts loosely back into the body (except the bushing above the panhard bar as previously stated) so the body doesn't slide off of the frame when jacking up the other side.
Step 7:
Move to the other side and repeat steps 3-6. Again, make sure there are no hoses, wires, etc. to be pinched/smashed and if so move them as necessary.
Step 8:
Install the bottom bushings on all 12 of the mounting points. The radiused edge faces down to fit the retainers.
Remember: Don't forget to grease the flat face of the bushing that contacts the frame if you are running poly bushings.
Step 9:
Add a drop of Loctite on the threads and install the first bolt. I installed a washer between the bolt head and retainer but I don't think it is necessary. Start in the middle of the vehicle with the first bolt and work your way out when tightening/torquing in a criss-cross pattern (like bolting down an intake manifold going back and forth to each side) I torqued mine to 65 ft*lbs but the blazer torque specs are 55 ft*lbs. Here is a final product of one installed:
Step 10:
Enjoy!!! This will net you around an 1" drop.
Grinder with a cutting wheel
Large screw driver
Ratchet with extensions
Torque wrench
18mm socket
15mm wrench
Grease (optional)
Jack
Wood (2x4 or any relatively good sized piece)
Loctite
Shorter M12x1.75 bolts if you don't want the stock longer bolts or if you happen to break any. I would highly recommend purchasing two 80mm length for the core support and save yourself a bit of a headache.
What you will need to purchase:
12 - 1983-2005 s10 blazer body mounts
12 - s10 Retainers (p/n 29-0812 from LMC Truck)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Step 1:
Take all body mount bolts out on one side using 18mm socket. You will need to use the 15mm wrench on the front core support along with the 18mm socket (leave the bolt in). There are 6 on each side (12 total).
Step 2:
Loosen body mounts on the opposite side. You MUST take out the body mount bolt above the panhard bar or else the body will bind when jacking it up.
Step 3:
Jack up the body on the side you removed all of the bolts. I used a 2x4 along the side steps to lift the body.
Remove all of the body mounts on that side.
Step 4:
Remove all of the stock bushings from the metal cups. This is where you will need a large screw driver to pry them off. The bigger, the better as you will get more leverage.
Step 5:
If you put on the s10 top body mount bushing it will look like this (I already cut the shaft down some so it is shorter than what you will see):
The metal cup needs to be cut back to allow more room as you can see it is close to the frame and is very close to rubbing on the inside portion. I cut mine ~1/4":
The shaft needs to be cut level with the bottom of the bushing. The final product will look like this:
With the top s10 bushing on:
Here is one side ready to go:
Note: The bottom right metal cup doesn't have the spacer on top compared to the other 5. I believe these go back on the core support. I wasn't paying attention and didn't catch this until it was too late.
If you are going to be running polyurethane bushings I would highly recommend adding a thin layer of grease on each face of the bushings that will see contact to the metal cup and frame to prevent squeaking.
***I would like to thank Jason (gunther19820 over at s10forum.com) for sending me many pictures with measurements of the stock s10 metal cups so that I could modify my cups. Thank you again Jason!!***
If you want to make it very easy on yourself also purchase 12 s10 metal cups and it will save you a whole lot of time so you don't have to modify the stock cups.
Step 6:
Put the top metal cup/bushing back into the frame. The long oval part of the metal shaft faces front to back. This is what the new modified cup and top bushing will look like:
Make sure there are no hoses, wires, etc. to be pinched/smashed and if so move them as necessary. Lower the vehicle slowly back down once all 6 have been installed. Put the bolts loosely back into the body (except the bushing above the panhard bar as previously stated) so the body doesn't slide off of the frame when jacking up the other side.
Step 7:
Move to the other side and repeat steps 3-6. Again, make sure there are no hoses, wires, etc. to be pinched/smashed and if so move them as necessary.
Step 8:
Install the bottom bushings on all 12 of the mounting points. The radiused edge faces down to fit the retainers.
Remember: Don't forget to grease the flat face of the bushing that contacts the frame if you are running poly bushings.
Step 9:
Add a drop of Loctite on the threads and install the first bolt. I installed a washer between the bolt head and retainer but I don't think it is necessary. Start in the middle of the vehicle with the first bolt and work your way out when tightening/torquing in a criss-cross pattern (like bolting down an intake manifold going back and forth to each side) I torqued mine to 65 ft*lbs but the blazer torque specs are 55 ft*lbs. Here is a final product of one installed:
Step 10:
Enjoy!!! This will net you around an 1" drop.
Last edited:
