2010 Tahoe and P0175 RICH Codes

Hey Guys,

I've been struggling with this issue for the past month or so, since I've made the drive from Ohio to North Carolina, when I randomly got a check engine light pop up mid trip.

A bit of background...

I've got a Volant CAI and Gibson cat back on it, and they've been on the truck for at least 8k miles without this issue!

Now, I'm getting bank 1 and 2 running rich codes, and I can't quite figure out the issue!! I initially looked on the internet and found that it could be the o-ring on the maf sensor for the intake, which I didn't replace with the volant one (initially, but then again I never had a problem, so in retrospect I can no longer point at that). Replaced the o-ring with Volant's, and it didn't fix it. CEL came right back. Volant shipped me an ENTIRE NEW CAI unit, completely replaced it, and I was driving around this afternoon and BAM! It popped right back on....


I went to Autozone to verify it was the same code, and sure enough, it was.

I don't know what to do. I'm going to take it into the dealership, but I'm very time limited and need a car. Also, will they ***** about my intake and exhaust and possibly void my warranty or should I be cool? I had it at the dealership that I bought it at in January a couple of weeks ago and they didn't say anything. But that was before this CEL came on. Also, since I bought it in OHIO can I take to any GM dealership here in North Carolina????

It comes on after the car is warm and has been running for a while. Usually if I drive somewhere, turn off the car and then get back into it sometime relatively soon, it pops on!

PLEASE PLEASE give me any and all suggestions as to the problem cause because I can't quite figure out the issue. I've been using the same 87 and 89 exxon gasoline now for a while. I've never used E-85.

My dilemma is this, in a nutshell: I would automatically point to the intake (like I did) or the exhaust, but seeing as they were on the car for over 8k miles without an issue, I can't comprehend any possible reason for this CEL at this stage in the game. It's a brand new truck with only 12k miles on it!!!


I look forward to hearing from you guys... TIA. BTW, I do have to give props to Volant for being so awesome with the whole situation because they (no hassel) shipped me an entirely new unit without any delay.


Ryan

Its the intake, and the dealership will ***** about it.
I know that with these aftermarket intakes, the o-ring type screws holding the rubber seal sleeves on start coming loose after a certain amount of miles, which then may cause too much air to get in the engine. This would lead to the rich issue.
I would say go bac and make sure everything is tight, then you may want to clean the TB incase any dirt slipped through and masked it. Then make sure the MAF is working properply and get the code cleared, then you should be good to go.

Modded said:

Its the intake, and the dealership will ***** about it.
I know that with these aftermarket intakes, the o-ring type screws holding the rubber seal sleeves on start coming loose after a certain amount of miles, which then may cause too much air to get in the engine. This would lead to the rich issue.
I would say go bac and make sure everything is tight, then you may want to clean the TB incase any dirt slipped through and masked it. Then make sure the MAF is working properply and get the code cleared, then you should be good to go.

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Yeah, that's what I was thinking but let me reiterate that I just reinstalled the BRAND NEW Volant CAI and it happened again after I got a car wash and started the car back up. I used all new parts, went over everything meticulously again and again. I bought MAF cleaner a while back and tried that, didn't help. I'm currently leaving the negative battery cable disconnected overnight because the tech guy from Volant said that just "clearing it" via OBD doesn't erase it from the computer... ? BS? I don't know.

I'm doing everything I can. I checked the TB and everything looked fine. The car runs fine, it doesn't have a rough idle or any adverse conditions I can notice. It runs better now with the new intake (i can notice a difference) but I mean HOW CAN it be the damn intake after all this???

if it's running rich that means there is too little air in the air/fuel mixture. Put on the stock intake and take it in

Oh, then I do not know what to say.
You could just ditch the Volant if needed. All it does is give you very slight extra throttle response/HP. The main benefit of it is sound.

stevek said:

if it's running rich that means there is too little air in the air/fuel mixture. Put on the stock intake and take it in

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I would love to just put the stock intake on, but unfortunately I can't because my stock intake is in cleveland........

That would be the best solution, but I am unable to do that.

rlschmidt14 said:

I would love to just put the stock intake on, but unfortunately I can't because my stock intake is in cleveland........

That would be the best solution, but I am unable to do that.

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Well whatever you do, DEFINITELY don't take it in with the Volant on. Just wait until you put the stock intake on and see if the light stays off

stevek said:

Well whatever you do, DEFINITELY don't take it in with the Volant on. Just wait until you put the stock intake on and see if the light stays off

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I thought that they can't void my warranty just because of the intake?? What's the issue with bringing it to the dealership?

Knowing GM, they'll say you damaged the MAF installing the CAI... and they won't work on it because it's not on the OEM intake.

Well I appreciate your timely responses and input, but seeing as I have two options here... to fix it myself or take it to the dealership, I'm going to try everything I can before resorting to the dealership.

Please, any and all other ideas are greatly appreciated.