Ahh!! Crap!! P0758?

WTF is p0758?

"P0758 Generic Shift Solenoid B Electrical"

What is this, and how hard is it to replace? Can I do it myself? Do I need to pull the tranny out? Where is it? WTF? Somone beer me!!!!



---------- Post added at 11:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:18 PM ----------

Oh yeah- which body part am I going to have to sell to pay for this? Where's the decimal point?

hows the shifting ?

it's either a bad 2-3 shift solenoid or a bad connection at the main tranmsission plug. Replacing the shift solenoids is an easy job, they are in the lower pan, but the lower control valve must come off. You can do it yourself, and it wont set you back too much, just cost of parts and oil. More detail in the operation of the truck can also help to diagnose. transmissions are no fun..

Ok. I'll go drive it and get back. I know _nothing_ about transmissions. I pulled off the highway headed home, and it just wouldn't move from 3rd gear. The tranny shop told me to run the codes, and now I'm here.

i feel your pain man, i got my 96 hoe in the shop now too figure the trans shiftin hard into 2nd and why is my check engine blinking? just waitin for the bill.......

Ok. Reverse works fine. When I put it in drive, it goes into 3rd, and stays in 3rd. It won't shift up or down (70mph in 3rd sounds awesome. FTMFW!!!).

When I put it in 3rd, it stays in 3rd; if I shift from 3rd to DRIVE, nothing happens, shifting from 3rd to second it goes into 2nd as it should.

When I put it in second, it stays in second, if I shift to first nothing happens, if I shift to 3rd, it shifts like it should.

If I put it in first, it goes into 2nd, and stays in second.

Holy crap that's confusing. Thanks for the help in advance ladies and gents!!

Shift Solenoids, or bad connection. you gotta pull the pan to replace them. try looking for a schematic of the valve body on the internet to see which ones you need to replace (there are 2).

Testing the shift solenoids:
1. with the transmission pan removed, turn the ignition key to ON (do not turn to RUN or START)

2. using a multimeter, probe the two-pin wire connector (to the solenoid) for +12VDC (one wire carries constant +12VDC, the other wire is the Enable/GND lead from the PCM)

3. using a small jumper wire, short the Enable/GND lead to ground and listen for an audible click from the solenoid. NOTE: use extreme caution when testing - key to ON not RUN; engine NOT running; short ONLY the Enable/Gnd lead and NOT the +12VDC.

not expensive if you do yourself, solenoids are like 20 bucks + oil costs.

you can just as easily replace both, and just skip the testing, but the 1-2 shift solenoid is on the front left side of the valve body i believe.

You might also have a bad ignition switch bro, I had the same codes about a month ago.

The above from 99COOP is the procedure I found as well.



B

Ok, so solenoid is blown, it's about $200 to have the shop fix it. It's too cold outside for me to dick with this, so they've got my money. They also tell me that my tranny filter is heavy with metal shavings, and i need a rebuild. And my transfer case is shot. $1000 for the T-Case rebuild, $3000 for the tranny rebuild. you POS Hoe. You're getting something out of a junkyard to get me into next year, so I can sell you.

Am I crazy?

You're crazy for still wanting to drive the damn thing after something like that happening. I would have given up on the damn thing after the first 1K estimate was given to me... Hell, 5K is just beyond comprehension on keeping it.

Ahh- I have a junk yard that warranties anything you pull out of their lot. So for $800, I will have a tranny and t-case; for another $400 they'll install it. So I'm out $1200, and have three months to drive it/sell it. Or, painfully, I admit I might keep it, since everything else is new. Click the link in my sig to see all the new parts. It's fscking glorious.