Running A CVC BU60FHD Converter with Zeroed-Out Clutch Slip Target -- Any Advice/Experience?

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Scrappycrow

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Y'all,

I will be doing a number of reliability changes/upgrades soon, including disabling AFM and prophylactically replacing the torque converter & installing a Sonnax Zip Kit.

I'm leaning towards a CVC BU60FHD converter, as recommended by many here. For those who are running this converter, have you zeroed-out the clutch slip target with tuning? If so, what are the results? Do you know if CVC has anything to say on the matter (i.e. they don't recommend, their clutches can handle it, etc.)?

Thanks in advance,
Scrappy
2013 Tahoe LTZ 2WD
 

Foggy

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If you are going to use HPTuners, then you can get rid of TC lockup in
gears 1-3 (some people do 4th too/ I don't).
Zero out the slip in 5th & 6th gears.
Bring the upshift (shift scheduling) tables up quite a bit so you're
not hunting gears so much. Adjust the TCC lockup on the same curve.
Otherwise the rest can stay with stock settings.
I love my 6L80e since I have made my adjustment
 

Marky Dissod

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If you are going to use HPTuners ... get rid of TCC lockup in gears 1-3 (some people do 4th too / I don't).
Zero out the slip in 5th & 6th gears.
Bring the upshift (shift scheduling) tables up quite a bit, so you're not hunting gears as much.
Adjust the TCC lockup on the same curve.
Otherwise the rest can stay with stock settings.
I love my 6L80E since I have made my adjustment.
... TCC clutch slip is there mostly to do with Engine Half @$$,
so make sure you turn that crap off FIRST before you do any trans tuning.
If you keep TCC LockUp in 4th, might wanna zero out the slip there as well.
The faster the vehicle is going before the TCC locks (or unlocks), regardless of gear, the less you'll notice it.
 

Marky Dissod

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If you want to give your engine & transmission a wee lil extra protection against overheating,
1) Leave the 'DOD Enable' selector Enabled (yes, I know what I said, please read on)
2) RAISE the 'DOD Enable Engine Coolant Temp' (Min Engine Coolant Temp before V4 mode can enable)
to 230F / 110C.

See what I'm getting at?
 
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Scrappycrow

Scrappycrow

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Thanks for the input, Y'all! I'd already read both of your commentaries on the subject in other threads, but appreciate Y'all repeating it here. Now I just need folks' experiences with the converter in question.

See what I'm getting at?

Yep, cooling by cutting off half of the surface area relative to the power being made, while keeping the same amount of coolant flow.
 

Foggy

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I think GEOTRASH has that converter
 

Joseph Garcia

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@NickTransmissions is our local transmission expert, and her will have some perspectives on the torque converters that he recommends/uses, when he upgrades transmissions.

To help us out, specifically what do you plan to do with the truck after the upgrade? Track? Street 'competition'?
 
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Scrappycrow

Scrappycrow

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To help us out, specifically what do you plan to do with the truck after the upgrade? Track? Street 'competition'?
I intend to only be doing reliability, longevity, and driveability upgrades. It's a daily driver that I will use for regularly pulling a small utility trailer (that I used to pull with my 4-cylinder/auto '94 Camry without issue) and infrequently pulling a moderately-sized travel trailer no heavier than ~4K lbs. No HP modifications, no heavy-ass wheels/tires, definitely not any sort of motorsports or hot-rodding (I have my '57 Chevy, '79 AMC Spirit, and '88 BMW 535i for those).
 
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Marky Dissod

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I intend to only be doing reliability, longevity, and drivability upgrades.
3.42 will make life easier on the engine and transmission, better city MpG too.
Disabling Engine Half @$$ is not as good as deleting it, but every lil bit helps.
A well-rewritten shift schedule (post #3 by Foggy) sacrifices 1 or 2 PEAK MpG,
but the 6L80E will last even longer.

Vast majority of the rest is using AC Delco (or better) replacement parts.
 
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