Bought core block

[lspann3525]

Oh, I'm sure you know this, but when you torque the main cap bolts to the first torque pass, you are supposed to smack the crankshaft back and then forward a few times each with a dead blow hammer (to seat the thrust bearings). Then proceeded with the final torque-to-angle specs.

Then you should check the crankshaft endplay for specs. A cheap HF magnetic base and dual indicator is best, but I've seen guys use feeler gauges to measure the gap between the thrust bearings and machined surface on the crank.

No I did not know this but thanks. Once I get my hands on some 30w engine oil i'll start the torque sequence I was hoping that assembly lube would work for the bolts the price of oil here is 7 bucks a quart

 

[strutaeng]

No I did not know this but thanks. Once I get my hands on some 30w engine oil i'll start the torque sequence I was hoping that assembly lube would work for the bolts the price of oil here is 7 bucks a quart

Here's my adventure on my recent rebuild. I encourage you to see the PDF reference on post #18. Although different displacement, the overall specs should still apply to your engine.

TTY head bolts with engine in-vehicle

ARP hardware is worth it in my opinion and it’s a lot simpler to just tighten the shit out of them vs the stock bolts where you have to tty and go through that bs plus you can reuse arp stock is usually one and done as the bolt stretches out Some of us do shit right the first time so we don't...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

I hope this helps.

 

[tom3]

I have a question on the cylinder hone finish. Seems lately I'm not seeing the usual crosshatch pattern. Looking at this refurbed block the cylinder finish seems to be more circular? Is this a new practice? Is this something for the new thinner ring packages? I'd worry some about this.