vibration at 1100 RPM

my 2013 Yukon feels like you are driving over rumble strips at 1000 to 1100 RPM.
It’s got 186k on it, but a really nice vehicle. where do i start?

michele205mmi said:

my 2013 Yukon feels like you are driving over rumble strips at 1000 to 1100 RPM.
It’s got 186k on it, but a really nice vehicle. where do i start?

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Has the transmission or torque converter ever been replaced during the life of the vehicle?

I’m asking because what you’re describing is a common symptom of a failing torque converter lockup clutch. They’re good for 160k miles or so depending on how it’s driven.

Welcome from SoCal. How long have you had the Yukon?

The TC was my 1st thought too. Peek through the gap of the into the engine bay when the hood is up. In drive, with one foot on the brake, slowly apply throttle and verify there’s not a huge amount of engine movement.

You’re checking for bad motor mounts.

Is there a history of trans fluid service? Does the trans fluid smell burnt or is the level low?

I kind of follow vibrations like this
tires: rotate/rebalance, visible defects
wheels: check for wobble, visible dents/dings/bends
u-joints: check with driveline out
driveline: takes a shop & machine to check balance or re-balance
pinion: check for play, leaks, metal in diff fluid (hard to judge externally otherwise)
I would rule those out before jumping to transmission
BUT.....you never know, my TC was going out but I only had symptoms of some "jitter" that's what i call it at around 30-35 mph, no sound or other symptoms could mostly feel it when turning, kind of felt like maybe it wasn't wanting to release out of gear like a light banging feeling, def not rumble strip
you could maybe try driving it in 1st gear only and/or get it up to speed and put it in nuetral, then coast and see if there is any change or if the feeling/sound remains
also inspect hubs/brakes.

is it being driven at 1100rpm or in park reved to 1100?

This …

Doubeleive said:

… you could maybe try driving it in 1st gear only and/or get it up to speed and put it in nuetral, then coast and see if there is any change or if the feeling/sound remains

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petethepug said:

Welcome from SoCal. How long have you had the Yukon?

The TC was my 1st thought too. Peek through the gap of the into the engine bay when the hood is up. In drive, with one foot on the brake, slowly apply throttle and verify there’s not a huge amount of engine movement.

You’re checking for bad motor mounts.

Is there a history of trans fluid service? Does the trans fluid smell burnt or is the level low?

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I just bought the vehicle, so I do not know the history.

michele205mmi said:

I just bought the vehicle, so I do not know the history.

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I will check the motor mounts tonight and see if there is any movement. Thanks!

I have a 2012 Tahoe and getting a shake at 1000 rpms. I have changed both motor mounts and trans mount. Research leads me to believe TC. What other options are there? And how do I know it’s the TC and not my AFM I tuned out that is simply messing up?

Cort84 said:

I have a 2012 Tahoe and getting a shake at 1000 rpms. I have changed both motor mounts and trans mount. Research leads me to believe TC. What other options are there? And how do I know it’s the TC and not my AFM I tuned out that is simply messing up?

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when afm fails they usually have a noticeable tap and a misfire. most likely a flashing check engine light while it's missing.


tc I don't have much experience with, but I'd guess it would be fine in park reved up to 1k but under load in gear it shudders taking off. I believe it's usually the lock up clutch in the converter that's shuddering as it engages. if you have a scanner or something that can turn off the lock up as a test that would narrow it down.