Dreaded Effing lifter tap...... - SOLVED

B-train said:

So, after 120k miles of no AFM, 160,370 on the clock I got a lifter noise. The truck was in the body shop for 1.5 weeks and probably got started and moved 10 ft a dozen times......go and pick it up and it's ticking. The guy says " we see that sometimes, probably just need to drive it." Man was I PISSED!

So, I put some Seafoam in it and drove it home.....no change. Going to drop the oil and see if fresh oil, filter, and an oil additive an old master mechanic mentioned to me to see if it will help pump it back up. Will update later today when finished.

This whole thing really grinds my gears - I take excellent care of my vehicles and because of ******** EPA beurocrats and shit-eating bean counters we the people get stuck eating the poo sandwich.

So, I have 4 options:
1. Change oil and pray for good outcome
2. If #1 fails, then put in $2400 of parts and do it myself....
3. Have GM dealership do it for $5500 (having friends there helped on the price by dropping it $1200). Still A LOT of $$
4. Pick up a 65k mile 6.6L from a bone yard 1 hour from here for $3500 and do as another guy here did with his suburban - forgot his handle


Yay for emissions!!!!

Click to expand...

Tech Tips: Replacing LS Active Fuel Management Lifters With Melling

Replacing a failed AFMt lifter is more involved than just swapping out a bad lifter for a good one - the root cause of the failure needs to be addressed.

www.enginelabs.com

L8T BURB said:

If the cost in repairing yourself is $2400, but you can source a 6.6 L8T for just $1100 more, most definitely I would recommend the 6.6 route. Since you'd be keeping your stock transmission, no need for a custom driveshaft. It would be a VERY straight forward swap. Only added cost would be getting the ECM tuned properly. My way of thinking is this... refreshing the cam/lifters in an engine that has 160k on the clock still seems more susceptible to failure than a 65k mile 6.6. That's roughly 100k miles less engine wear on heads, crank, block, etc. Of course, if you're paying someone to swap the engines, that may change the thought process on the cost comparisons.

I'm not sure where you stand in regard to equity in your truck right now... but there is always option #5 - Put some additive in it, maybe some 10w30 or even 15w40, and set up Carvana to come take it away.

Truth be told in my case, while it was awesome to go through that whole journey of swapping in the 6.6 and 6L90, if I had to do it all over again, I would have GLADLY taken my loss on the front end and sold it as is to whichever dealer would offer the most before attempting any repairs. All told, I was well over 13k with my swap on a 185k mile rig with a book value of under 10k. Sheesh. Live and learn I suppose.

It sounds like you are in far better shape to spend far less than I did, so I'd imagine this isn't likely isn't an apples to apples comparison.

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Blackcar said:

If you can decide which side tick is I would pull valve cover and see if you can see rocker arm that isn't moving correctly and some owners have found bent push rod which is easily replaced.
If bent push rod I would look at replacing valve solenoid manifold.
I wouldn't drive or run much to keep from causing more damage until a look under valve cover. Sounds like you have done good job with maintenance so rotating assembly should be fine.

Tech Tips: Replacing LS Active Fuel Management Lifters With Melling

Replacing a failed AFMt lifter is more involved than just swapping out a bad lifter for a good one - the root cause of the failure needs to be addressed.

www.enginelabs.com

Click to expand...

L8T BURB said:

If the cost in repairing yourself is $2400, but you can source a 6.6 L8T for just $1100 more, most definitely I would recommend the 6.6 route. Since you'd be keeping your stock transmission, no need for a custom driveshaft. It would be a VERY straight forward swap. Only added cost would be getting the ECM tuned properly. My way of thinking is this... refreshing the cam/lifters in an engine that has 160k on the clock still seems more susceptible to failure than a 65k mile 6.6. That's roughly 100k miles less engine wear on heads, crank, block, etc. Of course, if you're paying someone to swap the engines, that may change the thought process on the cost comparisons.

I'm not sure where you stand in regard to equity in your truck right now... but there is always option #5 - Put some additive in it, maybe some 10w30 or even 15w40, and set up Carvana to come take it away.

Truth be told in my case, while it was awesome to go through that whole journey of swapping in the 6.6 and 6L90, if I had to do it all over again, I would have GLADLY taken my loss on the front end and sold it as is to whichever dealer would offer the most before attempting any repairs. All told, I was well over 13k with my swap on a 185k mile rig with a book value of under 10k. Sheesh. Live and learn I suppose.

It sounds like you are in far better shape to spend far less than I did, so I'd imagine this isn't likely isn't an apples to apples comparison.

Click to expand...