Remote Start Troubleshooting

petethepug said:

Tech2 map may get you there. If you download it to a desktop PC you can search with a keyword by holding down the control button then the F key.

A menu will pop up to type and search out a particular word or DTC code with laser beam accuracy so every search you make counts.

Post in thread 'BCM and Tech2'
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/bcm-and-tech2.149479/post-1893704

Click to expand...

Sounds good, I'll do some sleuthing. Great link to the pathing document, thanks!

I want to derail the thread a little bit but, it's still related to the topic... lol Where is the remote antenna located on a 2011 Tahoe?

Number 1 is the Remote Control Coor Lock Receiver. (RCDLR?)
One of the cables that plugs into is (to?) antenna.

ya it's in the rear drivers area behind the panel, might be as pictured above or more forward near the wheel well I have seen pictures of it, definetely rear drivers side though
it could vary possibly depending on the year and if it is swb/lwb. or it could be there on all of them, hard to say from the pictures I have seen
pretty sure it requires programming as well if replaced.

Thanks that gives me a great place to start looking. I insulated that whole area with a foil lined insulation, I wonder if that is why my reception went way down..

I'm getting back to working on this after a long hiatus - winter's here.

I've checked/done pretty much everything listed in this thread. Some of them multiple times. Recently went back to the very basics: made sure Remote Start is turned on in DIC - check. Made sure I have AP3 RPO - check. No CEL. No funky electrical gremlins of any kind. The only codes I get from all Tech 2 diagnostics: 1) lost connection with radio (aftermarket) and 2) B2555, which is covered from this TSB: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2013/SB-10051905-4497.pdf

The main things I know:
1. Both remotes will initiate the sequence. Parking lights flash, fuel pump primes for a second, a relay clicks under the hood.
2. Tech2 tells me there is an "ECM Crank Abort" on the remote start screen. I have had zero luck in finding any cause of that abort.

I have not found a way to actually use the Tech 2 to perform the remote start. It allows me to test all the buttons on the remotes, and all buttons including RS register a push. So I'm convinced it's not the remotes. Tech2 has also allowed me to rule out door locks, rear lift gate and hatch, and hood ajar. Everything is testing properly.

What could cause the ECM crank abort method without a CEL or other codes?

@swathdiver (or anyone else) does the AllDataDIY have a diagnostic procedure? I wouldn't mind paying for the short subscription if there is one available. I did purchase the $10 ebay service module that comes in like 30 different files. It's a good copy and will be useful eventually, but I can't find a single thing about remote start in there. There doesn't seem to be a master index that covers all the different files. (or really any index at all)

Here's a video with some info..


Sounds like this guy had an engine code that prevented it from starting, but he does go over some requirements for remote start to work..

Also seen a thread about a bad hood latch wire which prevented remote start.
Looking at the diagram below, it appears there is a switch for hood closed as well as ajar.
I'm guessing if the 'closed' switch isn't active, no remote start and no hood ajar message.

I don't know but sub'd to find out
I read there could be a ground issue that could cause a ECM abort
I think a little more probing with the tech2 might point you in the right direction
compare data from before start attempt to after start attempt, you will want to attach a external 12v power adapter so it doesn't reboot while testing.