Tips/tricks for separating lower ball joint 2018 Tahoe PPV?

CrashTestDummy · Sunday at 5:52 PM

We're mostly done loosening/removing everything on the front of our '18 PPV to install the Beltech 2" drop kit. We are struggling with separating the lower ball joint from the spindle, though. We've tried wailing on it with a BFH, slipping something between the LCA and spindle and jacking it up to hopefully wedge the piece between the two and separate them, heat with a BFH, pretty much everything I can think of except a ball joint separator tool. I'd like to NOT do that, as it'll tear up the boot. Heck, we even got out our sorta-power tool and wedged that between the LCA and spindle. Nada!!

We used a pitman arm puller on the tie rod and upper ball joints, but, sadly, it's too short for the lower. IIRC, when we did our '10 Tahoe, all it took was a jack under the lower stud and a BFH. That's not getting us anywhere this time. It's pretty rust-free, being a Texas vehicle, but I do now have it soaking in PB Blaster in case that helps any.

While we could do LCAs AND the drop kit, it'll add another $500 to the project. The ball joints and bushings look in otherwise good shape for a 103K mile vehicle.

Thoughts? Tips? Tricks? Thanks!!

k_arnold72 · Sunday at 6:34 PM

Penetrative fluids, and worst case scenario heating up the spindle at risk of ruining the joint.

Combination of these was how I did mine with the same kit. I remember having a hard time as well.

tom3 · Sunday at 11:44 PM

On the old cast iron spindles two hammers would pop it out. One big hammer to buck it with and a good sized ball peen to hit it. Hit the knuckle on the side. Has never failed me. Not sure what's actually there on your machine.

swathdiver · Monday at 3:05 AM

CrashTestDummy said:
We're mostly done loosening/removing everything on the front of our '18 PPV to install the Beltech 2" drop kit. We are struggling with separating the lower ball joint from the spindle, though. We've tried wailing on it with a BFH, slipping something between the LCA and spindle and jacking it up to hopefully wedge the piece between the two and separate them, heat with a BFH, pretty much everything I can think of except a ball joint separator tool. I'd like to NOT do that, as it'll tear up the boot. Heck, we even got out our sorta-power tool and wedged that between the LCA and spindle. Nada!!

We used a pitman arm puller on the tie rod and upper ball joints, but, sadly, it's too short for the lower. IIRC, when we did our '10 Tahoe, all it took was a jack under the lower stud and a BFH. That's not getting us anywhere this time. It's pretty rust-free, being a Texas vehicle, but I do now have it soaking in PB Blaster in case that helps any.

While we could do LCAs AND the drop kit, it'll add another $500 to the project. The ball joints and bushings look in otherwise good shape for a 103K mile vehicle.

Thoughts? Tips? Tricks? Thanks!!

You need the tool specifically made to do this job on our trucks:

J-43631

Stop by the house, you can borrow mine!

CrashTestDummy · Monday at 12:35 PM

k_arnold72 said:
Penetrative fluids, and worst case scenario heating up the spindle at risk of ruining the joint.

Combination of these was how I did mine with the same kit. I remember having a hard time as well.

Yeah, I tried the heat, but it was from a Burns-A-Matic torch, not an oxyacetylene torch, so probably not enough heat there.

CrashTestDummy · Monday at 12:37 PM

tom3 said:
On the old cast iron spindles two hammers would pop it out. One big hammer to buck it with and a good sized ball peen to hit it. Hit the knuckle on the side. Has never failed me. Not sure what's actually there on your machine.

While not using another hammer as a buck, I'm smacking the knuckle area pretty good with a 2 lb hand sledge, and having no luck.

CrashTestDummy · Monday at 12:39 PM

swathdiver said:
You need the tool specifically made to do this job on our trucks:

View attachment 443403

J-43631

Stop by the house, you can borrow mine!

On my way!! :Big Laugh:

Be there in about 12 hours!!

Ordered a cheap Chinesium copy, only because I could supposedly get it by tomorrow, but will probably order a proper Kent-Moore tool so I have one in the box. I'll also be checking the local parts house today to see what they have in their loaner pile.

k_arnold72 · Monday at 1:50 PM

When the spot you're applying to starts to glow, it's hot enough. It took me a combination of pbblaster and heat methods and patience

CrashTestDummy said:
Yeah, I tried the heat, but it was from a Burns-A-Matic torch, not an oxyacetylene torch, so probably not enough heat there.

Doubeleive · Monday at 2:19 PM

I know you already ordered a tool but a run of the meal puller should have worked fine
even a harbor freight one. I have had a adjustable one in my tool box for a few decades
something like this, if you need it shorter or longer a quick trip to the hardware store for a bolt with the same thread is all it takes
can be a puller or pusher

12PCS Heavy Duty Bearing Separator Removal Tool Kit Wheel Hub Axle Puller Pxoxkq | eBay

12Pcs/set Wheel Hub Axle Puller Set Bearing Removal Splitter Separator Tool Rbyi. Note: With this bearing puller kit, tight bearings, inner rings, magnetic wheels, drums ,Fly Wheel ,Gear Puller and other components can be easily removed.

www.ebay.com

Tonyv__ · Monday at 5:58 PM

If I was in your shoes, I’d use a pickle fork and a BFH. They have never let me down, even with PA rust. If you ruin the boot, rent a C clamp press and press a new ball joint in.

Tips/tricks for separating lower ball joint 2018 Tahoe PPV?

CrashTestDummy

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k_arnold72

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tom3

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swathdiver

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CrashTestDummy

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CrashTestDummy

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CrashTestDummy

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k_arnold72

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Doubeleive

Wes

12PCS Heavy Duty Bearing Separator Removal Tool Kit Wheel Hub Axle Puller Pxoxkq | eBay

Tonyv__

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