Extra power necessary?

Hey what's up people! I'm adding a jl audio stealthbox to the factory system (2019 midnight edition). It's only 300 watts. Is this gonna require a "big 3" upgrade or better yet, what would be some recommendations y'all would suggest for this setup in regards to not burning up my battery or alternator? It's been forever since I've messed with anything sound related and I'm passed the days of my lights dimming every time the bass hits . Anyway here's the info:

(Came up on a nice little bundle)

The Hard Data: Contains one 10TW1-2 in a sealed enclosure. 300 watt power handling. Wired for 2 ohm mono. Stealthbox® installs inside forward-most portion of front center console, without affecting storage space or cup holders. Replaces the OEM “subwoofer” system, if vehicle is so equipped.

JL Audio XDM300/1 XDM Series Monoblock Class-D Car/Marine Subwoofer Amplifier, 300 W
Specificiations:
Rated Continuous (RMS) Power @ 14.4 V
@ 4 Ω: 200 W RMS x 1
@ 3 Ω: 250 W RMS x 1
@ 2 Ω: 300 W RMS x 1
@ 1.5 Ω: N/A

Rated Continuous (RMS) Power @ 12.5 V
@ 4 Ω: 160 W RMS x 1
@ 3 Ω: 210 W RMS x 1
@ 2 Ω: 270 W RMS x 1
@ 1.5 Ω: N/A

JL Audio HD-RLC:Amplifier Remote Level Control and Cable

Thanks in advance!

300 additional watts is easily handled by your existing electrical system. Just wire your power wire to the amp directly to your battery with an appropriate power block and gauge of wire (#10 gauge should be plenty). It certainly won't hurt if you do the big 3 upgrade, but it is not necessary in your case.

I'm running 800 watts out of 2 amps, and I did not make any modifications to my truck's electrical system.

Joseph Garcia said:

300 additional watts is easily handled by your existing electrical system. Just wire your power wire to the amp directly to your battery with an appropriate power block and gauge of wire (#10 gauge should be plenty). It certainly won't hurt if you do the big 3 upgrade, but it is not necessary in your case.

I'm running 800 watts out of 2 amps, and I did not make any modifications to my truck's electrical system.

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Thank you

Do you know what alternator you have? 150, 170, or 200a? That amp produces 300w, and as a Class D should be (at worst) 80% efficient, so it'd actually use 360w. Since we have a PWM based alternator, the voltage can drop as low as 12v while running, so we will use that for our calculations. 360w\12v=30a, so at full tilt, it should use 30amps. At idle, if it you have a 150a alternator, that might be pushing it (if it were continuous, but it's not). I can't seem to find an output graph for these alternators, but it's max output won't be at idle. The Big 3 is relatively easy, and ensures you'll get the most out of your charging\electrical system...so I'd do it on a stock vehicle.

As stated above, the 30amp draw from your sound system (huge JL fan btw) isn't going to tax your electrical too much. I'd still do the big 3 anyway, you get the most out of your system with doing it.

Yes, it won't be an issue. Realistically, the 30 amp draw is not even close to continuous, if fact it would be quite momentary (bass beat, as bass sound draws 80+% of the total power draw), and that momentary current pulse would be absorbed and handled almost entirely by the battery.

Walkerfever said:

Do you know what alternator you have? 150, 170, or 200a? That amp produces 300w, and as a Class D should be (at worst) 80% efficient, so it'd actually use 360w. Since we have a PWM based alternator, the voltage can drop as low as 12v while running, so we will use that for our calculations. 360w\12v=30a, so at full tilt, it should use 30amps. At idle, if it you have a 150a alternator, that might be pushing it. I can't seem to find an output graph for these alternators, but it's max output won't be at idle. The Big 3 is relatively easy, and ensures you'll get the most out of your charging\electrical system...so I'd do it on a stock vehicle.

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most of these newer trucks now have 160a stock alternator, 300w won't be a problem. Some may have a 145a like my Silverado, but I have more power hooked up and more speakers and it has never been a issue. I did have a 220a in it but it went bad and caused a bit of havock in the process, stupid thing was sending 800ma burst's to the bcm making it think the ignition was being cycled. I couldn't figure it out even though I gave it my best try, even the dealer could not find it until a tech sat on it for 2 hours with a oscilloscope and traced it to the alternator. I just haven't gotten around to putting another 220 in it yet, I have a winch wired up and a air compressor and it runs a wireless air ride system, 2 amps and 8 speakers including 2 10"s, HID's, the winch and compressor are intermittent of course but it handles it fine

Doubeleive said:

most of these newer trucks now have 160a stock alternator, 300w won't be a problem. Some may have a 145a like my Silverado, but I have more power hooked up and more speakers and it has never been a issue. I did have a 220a in it but it went bad and caused a bit of havock in the process, stupid thing was sending 800ma burst's to the bcm making it think the ignition was being cycled. I couldn't figure it out even though I gave it my best try, even the dealer could not find it until a tech sat on it for 2 hours with a oscilloscope and traced it to the alternator. I just haven't gotten around to putting another 220 in it yet, I have a winch wired up and a air compressor and it runs a wireless air ride system, 2 amps and 8 speakers including 2 10"s, HID's, the winch and compressor are intermittent of course but it handles it fine

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My 2019 SLT had a 150a stock. I've since swapped in a 220a, because I like having more power if\when I need it. 30a is quite the draw depending on what the output of the alternator is at idea. The last alternator I built was a 140a CS144 I rebuilt to 250a, because of it's idle output (120a). The CS130D it took the place of only had ~85a, so it was a decent jump. In either case, a 30amp draw at idle would be a significant hit to what it available. I really wish I could find an output graph of what these alternators are capable of, and what the stock amperage draw at idle is on these. That'd be the only way to tell for sure. Realistically it'd probably be fine, except for then the amplifier draws it's max amount of power...in which case the lights might dim a bit, and could piss off the PWM controlled voltage regulator, lol.

Walkerfever said:

My 2019 SLT had a 150a stock. I've since swapped in a 220a, because I like having more power if\when I need it. 30a is quite the draw depending on what the output of the alternator is at idea. The last alternator I built was a 140a CS144 I rebuilt to 250a, because of it's idle output (120a). The CS130D it took the place of only had ~85a, so it was a decent jump. In either case, a 30amp draw at idle would be a significant hit to what it available. I really wish I could find an output graph of what these alternators are capable of, and what the stock amperage draw at idle is on these. That'd be the only way to tell for sure. Realistically it'd probably be fine, except for then the amplifier draws it's max amount of power...in which case the lights might dim a bit, and could piss off the PWM controlled voltage regulator, lol.

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that's probably my benefit of having hid's they don't flicker or dim when the voltage dips, I do have them directly wired to the battery so they have a nice cap lol