I second the Cooper Zeons. Im surprised at how quiet they are and they have excellent wet and dry pavement grip. I don't have any offroad experiences yet.
33x12.5 would be tight and require trimming. I'm running 305/50s (12x32) and rub slightly on the sway bar. Go 275/60 if you want taller or 305/50 for wider.
I'm leaning towards trimming. Actually the tabs are part of the bumper cover and are just openings for the valance to pop into with only 1 screw on each side.
The front rubs slightly on the sway bar at full lock, no where on the liner. The rear rubs the liner that bulges for the autoride...
2011 Suburban with 1.5" front level only with 305/50R20 Cooper Zeons. Need to figure out what to do with the lower valance... re-install valance, trim it, or trim the tabs.
If you haven't measured you could probably tell by the gap between the body and running boards. On my suburban I could stick my pinky finger between the body and running boards in the rear but not the front.
I decided to get several measurements to see if anything else was off. I compared the heights of the door handles, moulding, and body lines from front to rear and everything was 1/2" higher in the rear as it should. The running boards were the only thing higher in the front.
I loosened the...
Is the Suburban lettering still on the doors? If so, Is there any chance you could get a picture of the side of the Suburban. I'm thinking of demoulding my Burb and leaving the lettering.
It doesn't look like Tahoes/Suburbans that are Z71 or remove the running boards have this. Im going to see if they can be adjusted. I'm also thinking of removing the moulding since its an LTZ with the chrome line.
I haven't had a chance to get underneath and see if it can be adjusted. I thought maybe it was intentional from factory since they have a raked stance.
I have a 2011 Suburban that I recently installed a 1.5" front level. The rear fender gap is 1/4" higher than the front which is what was expected based off of pre-level dimensions. Even though the rear is slightly higher it appears that the rear sags, I figured out why. The running boards are...
Do you know if the lift shocks are good? I bought a 2011 last year and the lift gate would only go up about a foot and then close, it was due to the shocks not being strong enough. That was only a 3 year old suburban, yours is a 2007 and if those are original that could be the problem.
It's the same as leveling the Tahoe, which there are several discussions already started. There should be no issues, check here for a thread with a Suburban LTZ. I just did my 2011 Suburban with a 1.5" level, its just a strut spacer.
Not sure if you have tried the Cortex yet but I have the 2950 as well. I used to the tow program hauling my HHR from PA to FL. It definitely helped with pulling out and merging. I only have the 5.3. It does require you to run 93 octane.
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