Thats what she said!
but seriously i take it you mean any full leather wheel vs. wood inserts? Thicker def sounds better..
if you break down what you pay for nicer leather, fresh buttons, fresh side panels, fresh stitching, leather smell, umm fresh screws? ..the price is less bad.
Yep, exactly it!
Vibrating off the mount on acceleration setting driver knock sensor(s?) off. Would stay in knock retard as long as I was moderately on throttle. Have heard the knock sensors are sensitive...(1 bolt missing, 2 bolts finger tight, 1 bolt backed out 2-3 full turns.)
Probably...
It would seem like even if OFF, the check wouldn't be completed/ready. Or maybe they can set it to permanently completed? IDK
Always a chance there was just a small detail missed, hopefully there's a solution.
But it sound like you got a bigger issue, not a clogged or slow fuel injector? (Sorry...
So theres a missing front driverside upper motor mount-to-block bolt that ran away. And his neighbors were upset, starting to leave and go look for him!
I guess the weakling that did this (me) couldn't do any better.. or forgot to tighten one side.. or a combo. theres no telling anymore...
Seems absolutely insane to me, and pisses me off more than the sad face I "liked" on your post. Guess Im changing it to an angry face..
If you figure its just rich elitists and corrupt politics, I guess it makes perfect sense..
x2 on getting a decent scan(ner)
Guessing you mean.. you have power everywhere *BUT* to the rear blower motor. ?
Looks like the main climate control module controls it.. X4 pin 10 on the HVAC control module. Dark Green wire.. 2211
It likely uses a different amp/subs if upgraded stereo, and may have different wiring and connectors as well.
Probably will need to do wiring at least, may require the amp as well.
Someone here did upgrade the lower level amp to a higher model...
additional favorite Autosync functions
------------------------------------------
disable auto door locks!
remote unlock all doors (1 press)
remote open/close windows
retained accessory power (I can still close my windows after opening the door!)
manual exit lighting (flash high beams after...
AutoSync and HPTuners are my two favorite upgrades!
(and my chime bypass..)
Although I have no drivetrain upgrades to compare to.. apples/oranges kinda thing..
I once drove a friends toyota pickup that had blown out rear shocks.. Whole back end bounced up and down after going over a speed bump.
So I think one blown shock could do it. And if one is bad, maybe you have two bad ones. On one side or diagonally..
Once drove a Jeep wrangler with swaybars...
Actually about $1700..
Have no experience with it, but presumably it is stronger..
Two screws at end of crossbars..
baselineoverland.com/products/2007-2014-gmc-yukon-chevy-tahoe-roof-rack
I ALWAYS use the cig adapter on my clone. It was like powering the Candi module was just too much for it to handle. Now I know why!
Im still happy with it. Probably paid around $350 couple years ago.
Ugliest welds won't be visible when installed.
They seem useable with a little touch up..
Don't like the extra EGR ports.
Factory mani looks more durable to me.
Only need one wrench to undo collector nuts..
Unless for weight savings and sound, maybe not worth the trouble?
If this is the wheel..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/405032107187?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Yl6wBEtQT_S&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=sWEkg-41QjO&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
The photo seems to show 28...
https://www.wheel-size.com/size/chevrolet/tahoe/2021/
and that tire size page...
Or find some LED's and use them for additional backup lights. ?
(You'd have to run the backup wire to the liftgate, which is fairly easy.)
If you're @Doubeleive, you mount some radar jammers there!
It has always been disabled in 1-3!
The light blue graph of tcc pressure is all 4th gear.
Did something get jammed up or start leaking?
Still slips around 800rpm at idle in gear. Doesn't bog coming to stop, so it's not stuck stuck..
Hopefully I'm flat wrong! (boo no 10l80 swap!
Or could it be...
One thing I am now noticing that COMPLETELY lines up with your theory, my TCC slip used to spike to ~400 rpms after a shift (1-2)
Now it seems to only slips 100-200 rpms after 1-2 shifts..
:( ruhroh.. I think you nailed it hagar!
nice looking TCC slip rpm peaks 1-2-3 shifts, BEFORE
No nice...
So you are saying, if there is no drag down, that the converter is semi locked always?
I haven't noticed it stalling coming to a stop.. ?
Would it be noticeable in the TCC slip and Trans slip graphs?
Here's a screencap with injector pw (bank 1 and bank 2 averages)
Cyl airmass was around .17g at idle, max recorded was .69g under throttle. Doesn't always KR when the airmass is high, though frequently does.
I rescaled the spark timing and retard to be on the same scale. (default upper/lower...
Starting to wonder..
Drilled some holes, I saw spikes as high as 2.5psi (snap throttle) but it quickly tapered to 0.
Steady high revs (4000rpm?) it was 0 and steady.
Looking at this video, he's telling me my cats are fine.. and fueling is fine (o2 sensors go rich on heavy throttle)
Hmmmm...
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