Oh…well hopefully that sensor got damaged and a new one fixes it. Damn that makes me nervous. There’s a visual test you can do on the tone ring- if you remove the sensor and look straight up you should be able to see teeth on the tone ring, or use a pick and feel for them. Maybe remove both...
He replaced the driver side tone ring due to damaging it when doing that bearing and seal. The code is for the passenger rear sensor. Plus I shipped him the specialty tool to set that tone ring with so it should be good.
I think the c0561-71 will clear once the passenger speed sensor is replaced. If I read correctly, it’s an EBCM code saying it’s not getting good data which makes sense if there’s a bad speed sensor. I’d replace the sensor and then see if they both clear.
Yeah you need to get the codes. It should have cleared right after driving it. Might be a front one or the other rear. Luckily the rears are easy to replace the sensor on. Fronts, I just do the whole hub if it’s got a lot of miles.
Yeah if I’m really going to get into the wiring under the hood to that extent I’d just be tempted to extend it all and hide it completely. Which I might do on my bagged Silverado some day, I’ve considered it. The stock harnesses are just a mess which GM solved by sticking a plastic engine cover...
Oh yeah I know, I’ve done some. I have a bunch of different sizes of braided expandable stuff that I did some of the hoses with. Problem with that is you have to get the end connectors to go through it, then stretch it tight but it only expands/ contracts so much depending on the size so big end...
If you have Amazon Prime you can get a flywheel locking tool in one day. Just search “ls engine flywheel locking tool”. You would just have to remove it to turn the flexplate if needed to reach all the bolts. I’m not sure what your access looks like, I’ve only done 4l60’s.
I wouldn’t use a swivel on an impact myself. A wobble yes but a swivel is too easy for it to slip and you can’t push on it which is what an impact does. That’s my experience anyway.
Just don’t round off those bolts or you’ll be screwed. In other words, make sure the socket is seated square. They make wobble extensions that allow the socket to be square to the bolt but the extension and ratchet or impact can angle a bit.
Yeah like I said at 300k miles I can see it. I believe some bearing issues can be the result of low fluid in the diff since the axle tubes are meant to be bathed in that fluid afaik and if it’s low the bearings can prematurely wear. There’s plenty of these trucks that never see new fluid in the...
My appointment at my friends body shop was today so I stopped by. He is way behind due to the big snowstorm we had a month or so ago and so we decided to push it back 2 weeks to give him a chance to catch up. I understand since he’s doing it pretty much for the cost of materials plus a little...
Probably end up like the broken dash class action on the 07-14’s, never went anywhere. Is this shaking a big thing? Never heard of it but I don’t own one of that model year.
Interesting. Did you maintain the differential with regular fluid changes? Fluid level in the differential is important also. I changed the bearings on my 02 at 160k as preventative maintenance and both the bearings as well as axles looked brand new still. I even opened up the bearings and...
Like @Sam Harris said, the e-fans began in 05. Prior to that, the trucks did not have the wiring or relays/ fuses for them so most of us who did the conversion used a factory harness which includes an add-on fuse panel that attaches to the side of the main under hood one. There are aftermarket...
Actually, for the converter I used a big screwdriver through that access hole since you need to turn the flexplate each time you remove or install a bolt. That tool won’t work good for that, it’s meant for the harmonic balancer bolt.
I use one similar. You just need to move the starter out of the way so I leave the cables hooked up, remove the bolts and just slide it into a cranny on top of the frame.
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