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    What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

    I don't do pics and all that young person stuff cause my smartphone is really dumb.... But I did replace my Pass Rear Outside Door Handle Today (before the snow hits tomorrow) I had to replace the front pass side door handle in the spring.... The first owner must have had little dumbass kids...
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    proactive instead of reactive - another AFM delete

    Well on the fuel line bracket, I figured it was there just keep stuff "in place", maybe during assembly or something... I did Not put mine back on when I had the heads off.. On the timing chain, Yes that's it.. The plastic rubbing type eventually wears off and spits shit into the engine...
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    What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

    IF you are losing coolant in that area, it's for sure the heater hose Tee's... Get the GM ones, not dorman or other brand.. Kind of a PIA to change, but you'll be stranded and overheat your engine once they "go"
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    What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

    OK Thanks.. I looked at the diff ones from RA too... I saw the CAPA certified ones a while ago. Mine aren't too bad, yet
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    13 Denali awd

    Very Nice Find !!! At the minimum, turn off that damned DOD with a programer or get it tuned. Just turning off the dod and doing some tweaks to the trans shifting and torque converter strategy will make you LOVE the 6.2 and extend the life of everything greatly
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    What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

    I have the same denali !!... Which headlights did you use ????? I've got one with big crack in it
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    Circle D 300mm Triple Disk vs CVC BU60FHD for the 6L80 in my 2013 Escalade

    Just to add: the stock stall is approx 1600-1700 . I put in an 1800 stall and it was awesome until I went with a bigger cam.. Now I would like a 2000-2100 stall. But the 1800 is Fine til have a reason to pull the motor or the trans
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    Circle D 300mm Triple Disk vs CVC BU60FHD for the 6L80 in my 2013 Escalade

    You don't need a triple disc lock up clutch unless you are towing heavy quite often. You don't need a triple disc lock up clutch unless you are racing and need to lock it up at full throttle to improve your 1/4 mile time and mph. Also a triple disc "can" go into lock up quite harshly. For your...
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    2007 Yukon Denali - Brake - Traction Control warning lamps

    Many times a CEL Check Engine Light will trigger the traction control system. You'll need to scan your codes and fix problem and clear out codes. Its a safety thing to let you know that with certain codes the other systems will not function correctly.. (many times totally unrelated)
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    Remote Start Stopped Working on '08 Z71

    What FLESS said.. If you have a check engine light on, the remote start won't work.. You need to fix your issue and clear out the CEL.. Then the remote start will work again
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    L94 to L96 engine swap

    I'm not aware of 6.0's with VVT.. Maybe someone here will enlighten me. Many 6.0's don't have AFM/DOD since they were put in the 2500's (even though the valley oil towers are there). The 6.0 can be cheaper since there were tons produced. And would be fine. But if you want to keep VVT you'll...
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    Heated O2 Sensor Readings?

    It will take at minimum 1 full drive cycle.. Now that "cycle" will have to be varied driving at at least 50 mph at some point... Give it a bit and see if it comes back.. Just want to make sure also that you are replacing the correct O2 sensor. Bank 1 is drivers side. Bank 2 is passenger side.
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    Heated O2 Sensor Readings?

    Once the engine is warmed your upstream O2 sensors will bounce up and down. Anywhere from 0 mv up to 999 mv. and they bounce constantly. If the output is NOT bouncing, it's not working
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    Thoughts on preemptive engine repair vs eventual replacement

    1. Drive it as is until you have real problems 2. Don't waste your money on replacing the valvetrain (yet) DO NOT Turn AFM ON 3. Wait until you NEED to tear it down to do a mechanical delete 4. Sounds like a plan... You can work on the used 5.3 at your convenience 5. Remember, anytime...
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    Engine Stuttering at ~1500 RPMs

    Trans service every 25-30K.. But if you bought used, I'd change it immediately and then only go about 10K til the next one so you really know the trans well. As for plug wires, these engines aren't super picky.. Can't go wrong with the GM or ACDelco's and even the $55 parts stores brands would...
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    Engine Stuttering at ~1500 RPMs

    And def install new plugs and wires: AC Delco Irridiums and decent plug wires My guess is that's the issue with being a P0300 if your stuff has more than 50K on it
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    Engine Stuttering at ~1500 RPMs

    60K is too long between trans services.. I'd get it serviced the correct way : Drop the pan, clean everything, install new filter, reinstall pan and fill with Dex VI fluid.
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    13 suburban rear end

    If you were closer, I'd offer my 8.6" rear as I'm getting ready to put in a 14 bolt soon. But I see we are half a country apart !
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    a few mis-fires during drive cycle?

    That's not really a number I'd be concerned with at all Try running some Techron Concentrate thru a couple of tanks of fuel and try some other brand and higher quality fuel.. Then check it out again
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    Torque Converter or Transmission

    Def not torque converter imo... Your trans is on it's way out, even if just low on fluid ;it sounds like it's been acting like this for a while No info on mileage/usage/ service history/ etc as of this point
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    Engine Stuttering at ~1500 RPMs

    You could add the lubegard.. it won't hurt anything I'm assuming that you've serviced the transmission (?) Plugs and Wires - How old ?? What Brand??? Fuel ?? Which fuel do you usually use? Are you still using that lately?? Give us a little more info and we can def help out as best as...
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    Engine Overheating/No Heat

    It looks like you DON"T have the engine oil cooler option.. That would be on drivers side -LEFT So you can buy either radiator... IF you don't have the oil cooler option, you just don't use the ports - they won't leak or anything.. AND on some parts lookups the 2014 can be hit or miss due to...
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    Engine Overheating/No Heat

    Yup +2 on the heater Tee's If you just want a stock replacement, the GM ones are fine.. Apparently they have been updated (that's what my parts guy told me) and they had them in stock... Not very expensive.. Just a ***** to take the old ones out. New ones go in easy. And ++ on getting a GOOD...
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    Engine Overheating/No Heat

    By your pics, my guess is the radiator itself or the water pump. Stuff get splashed ! Check your end tanks on the radiator- they are plastic.. That's prob where you'll find the leak. Good Luck.. Radiator Job is fairly easy on these
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    Engine Overheating/No Heat

    COOLANT LEVEL IS LOW

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