Your $4000 quote is reasonable for sure...
IF you are just doing lifters and the cam is still fine, then my advice to You:
Replace the VLOM with the new updated part from Dorman or get the GM part.
After all the work is done, TURN OFF that damned DOD/AFM...
There are a few options to turn it off
After re reading.. it looks like your issue may have a little bit to do with colder
cooler ambient temps.... Which to me signals a LEAN condition.
You should look at your LTFT for both banks and see what they report.
It might also be time for new upstream Oxygen sensors. They are a wear part...
On the 2010 model I'm not exactly sure what the fuel pressure should be,
but on the 12-14 it's should be in the mid 50's for sure.
42-45 seems low to me
After reading the latest comments, I would remove the TB and clean both sides
of it. Reinstall it with a NEW gasket/seal...
Then do your idle relearn procedure yourself.
You 'may' want to recheck or reclean your MAF sensor too.. Just to make sure.
That can cause funky behavior too
Just wanted to add: the Dorman company has an "updated Vlom" ... it is
an improvement from the OE vlom and from their original replacement vlom.
It's prob the only one i'd use. (now other dorman stuff "can" suck)
After cleaning the TB you will want to do an idle RELEARN procedure.
You can do it with a diagnostic scanner or even without one.
Just search it on the web for GM DBW throttle relearn
I would imagine that "billet" vs "cast" alum blocks may make some difference here.
And of course the make up of the crank itself - steel, forged, billet...
The crank would expand "some" with heat to close the clearance a bit
I think this is the reason (maybe) that gm has gone with a variable...
It will idle better with the 91 octane (on the 6.2L).
The reason is that it goes to the HIGH octane tables on the spark tables
As soon as it detects "knock" it will then go to the low octane tables.
The difference in timing is subtle at some points, but around the idle area
it's about 2-3...
The intake removal job is pretty easy. There is no coolant in it..
That's why I don't really understand the importance of doing the oil pressure sensor
job without pulling the intake as it's really easy.. Just my opinion...
The fitting on the back of intake to the brake booster is a swivel type...
To add: IDK if the 6.0 has cathedral port heads or square port (like L92-L94-LS3)
This "may" affect your exhaust manifolds, not sure
And of course you'll have to use the intake etc off the 6.0 if it's cathedral port heads
They should both be 58X crank teeth... You'll want to be sure you get
a GEN 4 not a Gen 3 if you are doing a complete swap.
You will also need to get a "tune"... As the 6.0 is not E85 compatible and
will have a diff camshaft, injectors, etc than your FlexFuel 6.2 L.
the compression is...
It would have been almost impossible to knock the VLOM plug loose -its your first
picture, although that WOULD cause a check engine light.
The other two are a good possibility - the one at the rear of the intake to
your brake booster is a big one- you'll have to remove the intake manifold...
Agree with rocket man....
You may have inadvertently touched a vacuum/ air line that was already
in a deteriorated condition
That's a pretty big air leak for the FTtrims to go to 25* quickly
Triple check all that good stuff
No matter what, you will lose MPG with a bigger/heavier tire..
The gear ratio change to 4.10 will just make up for the taller tire
Your performance should be similar to the 3.42 w 31" tire, other than
you are having to spin more weight- lots more
You will still want to "tune" your PCM for the...
My lifters I used were cam motion brand. I bought my cam and lifters from Gwatney Performance..
OF course that was a year ago this week. SO I don't know what they have now.. They are a GM Dealer so
you can get GM OE parts too
Just to add to swathdiver's info: DO NOT BUY parts like these from places like
amazon and ebay... You WILL be sorry, no matter the savings.
There are TONS of knock off parts going around. A lifter is not one of those
you want to take any chances on. It'll wipe your motor
Use summit racing...
I did quite a bit of research (not real world testing like Geotrash) and decided
to keep VVT. I didn't have to replace the timing cover, etc which was a bonus...
From what I've seen, it does help with torque and will help a little with gas mileage
in the midrange.
Remember, that VVT in...
Well , you said "COIL" .. you have 8 of them and they fail very rarely...
But with the stuff you've done, I'd suspect maybe some torque converter shudder maybe,
although less common on the 4L80E...
or Even Spark Plugs Still... Use AC Delcos from a reputable source... Lots of
fake parts out...
That is why I could not use E85 with my Edelbrock SC.. Not enough fuel..
It uses the stock Flex fuel pump and injectors, so that pretty well maxes them out.
It didn't affect me much since E85 isn't the norm around here
When my Yukon was bone stock, I did some 'science' on the E85..
I didn't notice any difference at all in power or performance...
The only thing I really noticed was that my HWY MPG went from 16/17 ish
to about 14 ish on a good interstate trip. The trade off for price per gallon
seemed to...
218/230
116+4
.586''/.586'' Lift with 1.7
This cam is way too big for our heavy trucks. Yes, with a supercharger on it, it would be
fine. But getting it idle and behave would be very time consuming...
WITH a supercharger, you DON'T need a crap load of cam... Unless it's a race...
If you want to use factory type lines, then install a factory AUX Cooler..
That's the best advice I can give.
If you want or need an oem cooler you can message me. I removed mine
at low mileage to put in a HD fan cooled aux cooler due to my HP and towing needs
Without any codes present or even more info like a scan tool log file, it would be
unwise to buy a set of injectors.. And I wouldn't buy them from amazon- lots of fake
imposter parts there. You need to buy parts from a "non third party seller" like
summit racing or rockauto . Lots of "brand...
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