Most of those cameras are all the same quality, and its unlikely youll be impressed by any other than the OEM. Youll still be limited in picture by the shitty resolution of the OEM nav screen.
Should be the same. I bought mine from Crown Performance, extremely happy with them.
http://www.crownperformance.com/2007-18-silverado-1500-2wd-4wd-0-3-lift-double-center-rear-lines-w-stabilitrak/
The only time Ive ever had State Farm call for "cheap / used parts" was on a 9 year old vehicle where an OEM part wasnt available. Other than that one time, theyve always used new OEM. May be different in different parts of the country but I deal with these guys everyday. Liberty Mutual is...
An extra tip as Im sure you know - the threadlock on those bolts is extremely tough. IF you have a small butane torch, hit the nut / bolt for about 3 seconds before taking the 10mm off. It will prevent that T bolt from spinning / tearing up the plastic on the applique 9 times out of 10. Makes...
You need to look at the policies and see what they cover when youre in an accident. Will they use OEM parts or Aftermarket? New or used? State Farm has always had some of the best coverage, but that comes at a higher cost... but its there when you need it, which is the whole point of...
That’s why you have insurance. If you try to prevent theft and an attempt is made they’ll damage it which will make you more pissed than if they just took it. Let them have it and have a good insurance policy
I dont know about all that. I seem to think these and all other full size barely depreciate. Everyone seems to still be paying top dollar for K2XX and some NNBS still.
Open end with a big ass hammer, they always come right off. Now if you want the real thread lock champion, try removing your rear impact bar. I can’t tell you how many of those bolt heads break off (even when the trucks were new). Those things were locked down!
For what it’s worth too, I didn’t have to drop my diff but that’s because of my lift. It definitely needs to drop 3-4” though to get it out. I also had to take the 4 bolts out of the steering rack because the front of the pan hit the power steering lines. That part was really no big deal.
If you’re going to remove the pan, might I suggest changing the o ring on the pickup tube at the same time and the deflector. They’re both very cheap and well worth it if you plan on keeping it for a while.
12639759 - oil pan deflector
12584922 - oil pump oring
12612350 - oil pan gasket
You don’t need to drain fluid. You need to undo the 4 bolts holding it to the frame and the 6 on each CV shaft & 4 for the driveshaft. Put a jack under it and lower it. You need to drop it about 3-4”.
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