Yep, but that would be much of a “low probability” cause of a misfire but even that can be fixed without a new motor. Seems like a lot of these dealers don’t want to open the engine and repair it and just take the big money job and replace the motor.
I’d also check to see if an independent...
I can’t see how one misfire code means a new engine. Take that truck to another mechanic!
95% of the time it’s a plug and/or coil. Then if that’s not it the injector.
Thanks. Mystery solved.
I just didn’t remember because for the longest time when I started rhe car I had to hit OK through all these errors.
Stabilitrack error
Side detection sensor module errors
Stabilization system error
Level control system error
Park assist error
Front camera errors
Maybe...
Yeah. I always have the switch set to ON. If I have it off the message won’t display.
I’m just wondering if it’s left on if it’s normal for the truck to always give a message upon startup that the rain sensing wipers are set to ON. I don’t remember how it used to work when the truck was...
I recently fixed a good amount of electrical issues on my 2015 Tahoe LTZ and she’s finally good to go. I replaced the SCM, both blind spot sensors, and some damaged wiring. Prior to fixing all that I had tons of errors shown on the instrument cluster info screen as expected.
Now every time...
Those look pretty bad. $1200 in labor?! Wow I just replaced both rears on my 2015 and it took me less than 2hrs. Definately an easy DIY job.
If it was me I’d clean them off really good and then inspect later to see if there really is a leak. But to me I’d wager they need replaced.
Are these the correct parts?
There are 2 vent valves for my truck, which one do I need or I need both?
Evap canister:
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/gm-vapor-canister-15109431
Vapor canister vent valve:
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/gm-vapor-canister-vent-valve-23481275
Vapor...
Get a catch can now so you keep it clean. These DI engine need it.
Here is what mine looked like before I cleaned it. Bought it used and it had 100k miles with no catch can.
I did notice my scanner has the EVAP test. I tried to run it but the coolant was too hot it said. Seems like a ton of conditions needed to do it. Maybe I’ll look into it more.
But my car is 9 yrs old maybe it’s better just to replace this crap?
Have this code intermittently. It’s an EVAP large leak. I already:
1)replaced gas cap with OEM
2) checked fuel line between gas tank and filler.
I’ll still get the code to come on and clear itself. I also get the “tighten gas cap” message at time as well.
Anything else I should check...
I get those points. But if you bought a LTZ, premier, Denali and one of the main features of those trucks is the mag ride you’re really not getting what you paid for. If someone wanted to lift or level a Tahoe they should get a LT personally and use that base as a platform.
From my experience...
Finally all this crap works. Truck rides amazing. When the mag ride and air suspension work it’s one of the best rides you can get for sure. It’s amazing how often they adjust even when I move in the seat the suspension adjusts. Cool to see it on the scanner. You can see the shock current...
I fixed it. Weird issue that I don’t think if I had a bidirectional scanner could be fixed.
So the passenger shock airbag was “rolled up” and the compressor couldn’t get enough pressure to “unroll” it and it wouldn’t inflate. I had to jack the rear into the air to unload the shocks and then...
I replaced both today. I turned on the car the compressor pumps up and only the driver side gets blown up and the compressor turns off. The passenger side shock remains flat. I pulled the air connector off the passenger side and a gush of compressed air comes out which says that line has...
I had my hood repainted about 6 months ago for similar issue. Sucks.
It’s a 2016 Chevy won’t do anything for you unfortunately.
My roof is also faded and pretty weathered. I skipped that because it’s not as noticeable.
No that’s not right. You don’t want to buff it first. And wet sanding will remove clear coat.
Use a 40% diluted mixture of rubbing alcohol and a microfiber towel. You can increase to 60% if that don’t work.
Residue will come off with alcohol.
Tons of wiring harnesses under the car. My guess is one is exposed and getting moisture in there and causing the issue until it does out. There is also a large harness right above the spare tire that can rub on the frame member and damage wiring. Trust me I know.
Another thing that can...
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