Those videos look like the pulley is running true. The rubber is probably in good condition. On my 2006 5.3 the pulley is moving much more and I'm having it replaced. I noticed because the AC tensioner was bouncing. Maybe that is caused by something else. We'll see shortly.
Sure, the thing to worry about is... are the systems and controls working within designed parameters. The MPG will be what it is. E.g. if I drive very carefully on a long trip 65-70ish I can squeeze 20-21 out of my old 2006 Tahoe. That falls within the advertised performance so I guess...
Are you concerned something is wrong with the engine? E.g. running too rich/lean?
If not why worry about it. Let's say you were getting 15 instead of 12. That saves you about $90/month. You're driving an $80k car and you're worried about $90/month?
This thread is from a while ago....
I noticed yesterday that the tensioner pulley for the AC pump was sort of bouncing. I looked and the crank pulley is not true. Should it be? I haven't checked the bolt.
Same thing happened to me yesterday. I took off the old thermostat and there was a crappy paper gasket falling apart in addition to the "O-ring". I replaced with just the new "O ring" sort of thing that came with the new (from dealer) thermostat. I think the paper gasket could mess things up...
I'm also trying the Kirkland oil after the Project Farm report. At ~180,000 miles I use about 1 quart for every 5k miles. So I usually don't add any oil, I sample it and then change the oil and filter.
Not sure if the design of the 2010 is similar to my 2006. The alternator is somehow connected to the "computer" as part of controlling the output. The voltage is high for awhile and then drops as the computer "thinks" the battery is charged after doing some starting work.
I've noticed when engine braking down a fairly steep hill the connection to the transmission seems to vary. Sort of like the lockup gets turned on and off. I think this is happening because of the controls not something worn out.
I have a 4L65E, at least I think I do.
Pulling up the hills and all other situations the temp. is steady where it always is. I expect the thermostat to keep the temp the same in all situations except maybe at the very extremes.
The other day I drove over Sonora Pass CA. On many of the downhill sections I noticed the water temp. dropping a considerable amount (to the quarter point, 150F?). It was not very cold outside (50F). I don't recall any issues in the past with the cooling system able to keep the engine at a...
I've been doing regular diff oil changes. Not sure what the previous owner did. I got the car at 100k miles. Probably as you infer the previous owner didn't change the lube.
I didn't take pictures of the worn axle because it was at the local axle shop and I didn't think to take a picture. I...
FWIW - as it was explained to me - when the axle (inner race) wears the axle can move up/down/etc. and it wears out the seal. Then you start getting oil near the brake lining. I have this happening on my right side and so far it is not causing issues with braking or dripping.
FYI my axles are worn at 175k miles. The noise is getting very slightly louder as time goes on. I'm getting gear whine also. At some point I'm going to have to pull the tirgger.
Aren't the axles the inner races? Is it normally okay to just replace the bearings and reinstall the old axles? This assumes the axles show no signs of wear.
Okay - mentioned above re. axle savers. Sounds like axle savers are iffy.
I did both of mine at 170k - used from dealer oem parts along with new hoses/etc.
It was a bear to get the fittings off - fingers will not be the same.
Later I though of using a hose clamp to push down the clips.
I have one of those Griots Garage vacuum canisters. Sounds like not an issue with sucking out as much as possible and refilling. Did you measure the amount sucked out and fill with that amount? How much did you suck out? Thanks.
In my experience the part that wears out is the rotational pivot that sort of looks like a ball joint. The pitman and idler arm have one each. If these "pivots" have any movement other than rotation you will get some slop in the steering. It could be that one wears faster than the other, I...
No real help here just moral support. Considering the amount of money these things cost now you expect quality and good service/respect at least while under warranty. IMO - they should be calling you most days regarding the progress. This is why many don't want a new vehicle, it's not worth...
If you can get a e.g. large vice grip on the center link and push the vice grip front and back to twist the center link you might notice some movement. IMO - that's wear you don't want. Again I recommend replace both and in the future put some grease in every few years.
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