Thanks guys for the info./tips. Here is my getting-started list:
1 - clean mass air flow sensor
2 - Autozone borrow fuel pressure tester and test with key on and running.
3 - run Lucas fuel system cleaner
4 - attempt to find fuel filter under the vehicle
5 - take out one spark plug and see what...
I was referring to items like you mentioned. In my 4L60E the shifts seem very soft but maybe that's the design. By soft I mean almost can't feel them. In my 95 Suburban you could definitely feel the shifts. Apparently it's okay because I'm at 170k. Here's a question - Does changing to a...
If you watch the Precision Transmission channel on YouTube Richard goes over all this and much more as he takes apart various transmissions including the 4L60E.
I don't hear the rpm jump - it just feels a bit jerky. I'm very easy on the tranny the fluid has been changed at 100k when I got it and at about 160k. Color and smell was good per the transmission technician. My thought at this point is to try a fuel pressure test and see if I can use a long...
okay, thanks guys... I'll start working on it. I don't think it is translock shudder it is happening at about 60MPH or so. Like driving over the Sunol Grade near Fremont CA.
My 5.3 only has 171k miles. I got it at 100k miles and have been keeping up on the maintenance. The plug and plug wires are about 65k old.
In the last year or so it feels like I'm getting a definite miss going up hill at freeway speeds at medium to heavy throttle but not enough for it to kick...
Not everyone does this but I confess to doing just that. I recently replaced all the tensioners/belts/heater hoses/fittings and they were all working fine. E.g. I'm considering getting my transmission rebuilt but it is running fine at 170k miles. I don't want it to breakdown on a trip. If I'm...
This makes sense and I've heard it from others. The OEM production line parts are made on a different line compared to the aftermarket parts. Whoever is making the hub assembly for the original production can't afford to screw up. Aftermarket - nobody cares. Could be a seemingly small issue...
I flushed with Lubegard a few times and then filled to the mark. It's expensive but maybe better than non-synthetic fluid. I figured it must be better because it is more expensive. I know that's not always a correct assumption. I guess we'll see, so far so good after about 5k miles.
The axle surface is the inner race. In my case you could see part of the race was worn. The shop showed me. He said over time it will wear all across the surface. One of my seals is slowly leaking also. This was about 40k miles ago. I'm planning a two axle replacement along with the...
That's what I did. There are all sorts of walls/dividers in there. I don't think it would ever get close to looking new. Get a new cap also. Issue resolved good for another 15 years.
I'm thinking a GL-5 75W-90 vs. 80W-90 is not a significant difference. It would be interesting to find out why they spec'd 80W-90 vs the much more available 75W-90.
Excellent writeup. It might be posted above or somewhere regarding G80 and clutches. I think there are two mechanisms involved in "locking" the G80. First the fly weight comes out and "locks" the path to the clutches - then the clutches pass the torque. Assuming this is correct - should some...
One risk if attempting to use old fluid is some contamination picked up from containers and funnels used. Sounds like you might be due for a complete fluid flush/change. Do it.
Are we really to the point of trying to save $6 vs. the labor to save the fluid? So maybe save $3.
Thanks. I'll see what the guy says. It is very seldom I get in a slippery situation so I might just go with Gov Bomb and hope the clutches slip somewhat.
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