I'm pretty sure I have the recirculation activator over-travel issue that throws the P0229 code. One explanation is the foam gets compressed overtime and the door moves past the "stop" position too far. Makes sense - two ways to fix it:
1 - get the allowable limit reprogrammed at the dealer
2...
Did you get a code? I have code B0229. Recirculation position feedback circuit range/performance. Am I looking at replacing the recirculation door actuator?
If you drive in a dusty environment e.g. on a farm or ranch I would expect a lot of dirt would get pulled into the charcoal cannister. I don't know how much dirt they will take before a code gets tripped.
For general reference... I think our layout is something like this.
It has a rather wide open mesh type sponge filter inside the vent valve case. By the looks of it - it won't stop much in the way of fine dirt. I was thinking to improve the filtering by adding something.
I put the graphing on for purge and venting and drove around. Pretty much the vent stays open and the purge command goes up and down - maybe going to zero at a stop and idle. I guess this means the a lot of air is pulled through the vent valve and then the charcoal canister most of the time...
From what I can tell so far is the 15128874 is no longer available. I went to the dealer and they said there is no indication when it would arrive. Looking online lots of NLA. I'm thinking going to have to go to Dorman/etc.
This guy is good and recommend by other YouTube mechanics as it relates to EVAP.
I think this confirms that the purge valve should go to zero when "sealing".
My theory to that Foxwell might be doing something valid was incorrect.
So, IMHO Foxwell has a bug or this is some sort of pilot error.
As you say - during the "purge" the vent closes and the purge command goes to 10%. If you press "increase" the purge command goes to 20% etc. etc.... the vacuum goes up and may get too high and the test will kick you out. Or, while this is happening you hit the "seal" button and I was...
After replacing the purge and vent valves with OEM, I had a different thought regarding the purge/seal test. Why does the purge to go 10% and vent closed during the "test". I think this could be that if the leak is not more than 10% purge then the leak is small enough to pass the test. This...
I'm now thinking these AL aftermarket plates might affect oil flow in a negative way. As you suggest a new gasket using the existing stock part is probably what I will do.
I took the OEM plate off today. Noticed a nick in the gasket, maybe that is why the leak.
I installed the new billet AL plate but used the original bolts. The supplied bolts/screws had 1/2 the threads. Not good. I'm also not sure about the volume of the cavity for the O-ring but it went...
Somewhat of a side note. I noticed a HVAC trouble code and my HVAC controls don't work very well (rotate the knobs and the numbers don't change easily) and I hear clicking/squealing - either a rat or an actuator is not happy. I found a YouTube on how to reset and recalibrate all the blend...
All 4 GM O2s are in and are working when looking at scanner graphs.
One or two looked like they were returns but seem to be working fine.
I need to finish drive cycles - so far no codes.
I was looking to get a new clip while I was at it and I see this "new" clip. It looks like you can screw in the bolt and then slide the clip off. Any thoughts on this?
Did you insert the contacts and then get the plunger in and then the big spring?
I have my "new" switch apart now. I might be able to use the new contacts and put them in my old switch. Yes, takes quite a bit of pressure to get the bottom contact to connect. There is a point where all three...
That might be what happened to me yesterday after installing the new switch. The plunger wasn't getting depressed with the movement of the brake pedal. Dealing with that clip is a PITA.
I bought a new GM stop lamp switch pn 15128592 but it is sort of a mirror image of the original pn 25771554. By putting the 151 in upside down I was able to get it in and hook up but I could get the shift lever out of park. I put the old switch back in and everything worked. I started this...
Sure. Did you try one of the AL plates and it didn't work or do you need the OEM plate for some other reason? You don't have to mention the reason I'm curious because if I send you the OEM plate and then need it back etc etc.
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