I'm getting some O2 sensor P codes showing up so I'm looking at installing new.
RockAuto is confusing because it lists "Downstream" for pn 2133533 but that is an upstream sensor. Does anyone else see this?
Also, speaking of trying to buy GM OEM - if it says GM on RockAuto is that as good as...
Per Alldata diagram the brake switch signals go to one or two different modules (throttle control and power train control). This probably confuses these modules when the signal goes on/off when the brake pedal is not pressed. That's why the P codes?
This is excellent. I'm getting those codes. I might just go buy a switch but good to know you can refurbish one. I did this to my air compressor switch yesterday with success so I'm on a roll regarding switches. :-)
Okay, thanks. I'll run for a bit and see. I don't have an easy way to get a scope on the signal going to the purge valve but I may try to listen with a stethoscope. It would be good to confirm a bug in the Foxwell 510 software.
Got a new GM vent valve from the dealer and installed.
I did another purge/seal test and got the same results.
I had an idea. What if the Foxwell was sending some amount of "open" signal to the purge valve even when commanded to seal. Here is what I did.
After some amount of the purge/seal...
I tried the purge/seal test and then turned the key to OFF to watch the decay. Doesn't appear that this worked. The vent status went to VENTING when I turned the key to off.
I'm still getting rising negative pressure after hitting SEAL.
Maybe one thing to try is pulling the connector on the...
or.... with the purge valve unplugged (should be closed) and tube to tank unplugged I could start the car and I should feel/hear no leaking past the valve. Right?
I was thinking of getting a vacuum gauge/hand pump. I could take the hose going to the rear of the car off the purge valve and attach the gauge to the valve. If I start the engine if the valve is not leaking (closed) I should not see a vacuum. Right?
Okay - good idea, run purge/seal test and turn ignition to "ON" position and watch decay.
The O-ring going into the intake manifold looked okay.
I'm not totally following how to pull the vacuum and then plug something to hold the vacuum while not depending on the purge valve. I'll go take...
Break in the rain and I think I made progress. I got the vent valve out and disassembled. It was very dirty inside. I cleaned the filter and housings. You can take the valve off and blow it out. If you blow one way the valve snaps shut and you can feel if it is leaking very much when shut...
Okay, heavy rain here now. I was thinking I could detach it and have it hang down or connect some tubing to blow on it while commanding on/off with ig. on but engine not running. I have to see the tubing connection types - I don't want to mistakenly split tubing trying to pull it off a barb...
Okay thanks. Per the electrical schematic (Alldata) the vent solenoid has 12 volts applied all the time (and is normally open) the "controller" commands the vent valve closed by connecting the ground. I need to get a "12 volt probe" and some alligator clips. I'll try doing it with the...
Ideas on next steps?
I'm thinking when it clears up I'll get it in the air and look around.
So far:
1 - fuel tank pressure sensor reads 1.3 ish volts and goes up and down during the evap/purge test. So I think it is good.
2 - purge valve is working and doesn't appear to leak but I'm not sure...
My scanner is a Foxwell NT510 Elite Multi-System Scanner.
Today I ran the evap/purge test. It builds vacuum pretty easily but quickly goes down when I push "seal". Also, I went into manual mode and turned the vent valve on and off and I could hear it clicking. It wasn't a very loud click...
Very good instructions on running the purge/seal test. I'm going to redo that and see what happens and report. Working on the car today is limited - we are having a big rain storm. Please stand by. :)
Not 100% sure I did the purge and seal test correctly. I did see the purge valve open in a percentage manner on the reader and the fuel tank pressure went down. I pulled the vacuum in both directions on the purge valve and didn't feel an obvious leak.
It seems like when the purge valve closes...
Update - I moved the gear over about 1 tooth. All works good now.
I'm now starting to dig into the P0442 code.
I hooked up my code/scanner tool and got the purge valve to come on and watched the fuel tank pressure go down. When I shut the purge valve off the fuel tank pressure came back up to...
I'm reminded of something my Dad used to say. If all else fails try reading and following the directions. Well.... I thought what about looking in the manual. Guess what ? I thought the far counterclockwise direction was ACC. It is not - it is the "LOCK/OFF" position (key can come out)...
I'm feeling the old switch. It has 3 detents and a spring loaded feel on one end (starting mode).
1 - accessory
2 - off
3 - run
4 - spring rotate to start
With the key out (off) I need to put the switch on the "off" detent and then slide in the switch.
Does that make sense? That method is not...
okay, makes sense.
The pins positions are labeled A, B, C (B has a ground symbol) next row is D, E, F, G.
Can someone look up the descriptions? I don't have Alldata and so far can't find a free list.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.