Anyone have handy the pin descriptions for the switch?
Or the page in a diagram showing the switch where I might tell what each pin is.
I'm thinking I can put an ohm meter on the old switch and lean about the rotation positions/limits for each function.
Thanks.
I watched both videos. I see the moving over a bit or one tooth. There wasn't much said about where the key was. I assume in the "off" position instead of the acc. position.
In any case my situation is like the last video where is almost doesn't start - so I need to go at least one tooth over...
I still don't think I have the gear correctly aligned. One thought.
Get the key to the pull it out (off) position and then move the switch by hand with the switch pulled down to find the middle of the "off" position. This means moving the switch around with the battery connected?
Okay that helps.
I think if I have the radio on while engine is running...
Then turn key to off everything should go off except the radio.
If I open and close the door the radio will go off. ? Right.
Yes, I have the gear alignment issue. I finally got a spot that sort of works. The start position barely works. I was moving things back and forth maybe one tooth at a time and was having issues. E.g. couldn't find an off position where the radio would not go on. This is tricky because the...
Sure, but not sure how to find something else. I'll look again on RockAuto.
Other "makers" on RA listed: Rostra, WVE, SMP. I can't help thinking all these come off the same assembly line and/or use the same plastic/contacts tooling. I don't think the industry can support making three or four...
The OP didn't know the ignition switch is easy to replace. Does the key stay the same? Where does the OP get the new switch? I'll look for a Youtube on it. At this point the most likely causes are:
- ignition switch or something very close to it?
- connection at the mulit-pin connector on...
Yes, will do. I also tracked down info. on a bulletin.
TSB. #01-07-30-002D. This bulletin points to a bad ignition switch. I found a forum where a guy and the dealer chased the issue from the ignition switch point of view and it turned out to be a bad connection in the multi-pin connector...
Update. Went to my know good repair place. They sent me to the known good transmission place somewhat near me (San Jose). The guy there looked at the codes and said he is about 99% sure it is caused by a bad ignition module. He said there is a bulletin out on it.
I'm going to have one put...
Thanks. Last night drove in manual gears 1,2,3. I'll double check and try all 4 gears today. The rig seems to be driving as well as it ever did. Shifting seems fine.
After some Googling/etc. a potential easy fix for the trans codes - there is a large electrical connector on the transmission. This might have worked its way out a bit and/or is being contaminated with trans fluid coming past the sealing O ring there.
After clearing the codes I drove 15 miles with some freeway. I often select 3rd gear manually while driving on City streets.
Here are the codes I get. The O2 sensor codes did not reappear. The CEL did not come back on.
P Codes – 2006 Tahoe after 15 miles
P0442 Evap. Small leak
P0451 Fuel...
As far as I know I haven't driven on roads with any salt for years or ever. I might have hit some salt when going over the Sonora Pass last summer. The latest work was install a new harmonic balancer.
I know I know. :-) The CEL just came on, I plugged in the reader the same day the CEL came on. This is why I don't think all the codes happened at the same time. Do I get at least some credit?
You are right. I should have noted all the codes but it was a big list and I was lazy at the time. The drivability is good. I do plan to make note or download the list as I go. I expect some of the O2 codes to come back, I know I have an O2 sensor that is sort of weak. I had the feeling...
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