This is why I don't want just the regular replacement arms. I want that polyurethane kit. I have energy suspension sway bar bushings front/rear what a huge difference!!! Not a single squeak or noise. So unless someone can show me proof as to why I should not buy the kit, I'm going for it. Just...
:/. Thanks. I will keep that in mind. But I also did spend the cash on the super expensive nivomats and I’m glad I did. I just really wanted the advantage of the poly urethane energy suspension bushings.
Are the moog arms equipped with similar bushings??
I have access to a 20 ton shop press. I don't mind taking it to my buddies shop and using it. What I am curious about is someone who has the bushing kit installed and ride feedback.
I replaced the lower ball joints on my control arms in my driveway and it was cake. Everyone always advising to...
Does anyone have any feedback or experience with the energy suspension rear control arm bushing kit?? Just curious as my truck has well over 250k miles and I'd like to replace these. Patient pic attached
This is probably the best advise in the whole thread. Especially if your in HS and on a budget. Good luck gassing up that thirsty ride! Slow it down some. Most folks driving beaters in HS.
Post up some pics of the rig so folks could offer better input as well.
Question? Are you ball joints rusted in?? I literally just did this job last month or so on a 255k mile rig with oem ball joints. Before I started the disassembly I hit the lower ball joints from the top with pe..netratin oil and let it soaked while I worked. Another trick is to not completely...
A while back my battery light was on due to a bad alternator. I took it to Autozone and the thing still passed on the bench. I replaced it anyways with a NEW Duralast unit and problem solved. It all started when my main *Lady got stranded at work with a no crank condition.
I don't think that truck work over $10k cash. I understand supply is not good right now but buying a car is already a terrible investment, let alone at that cost. Even if he can afford.
Question as to why you had to cut them out?? The alignment kits for the upper control arms come with bolts that are specific to the application and aren't normally sold alone. Just trying to understand the bolt with bigger head reference.
The original ball joints have some "crimps" on the edges you have to work back in to allow the ball joint press to do its job. Honestly they were cake. Of course I hit them with penetrating fluid, had 24" 1/2 breaker bar on the socket. It was harder for me to figure out the correct orientation...
*********** oil and a decent hammer to shock the control arm is your friend. A few taps after soaking during disassembly and the lower ball joint separated from the lower arm with no hassle
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