I would go through your first post and just number your multiple issues so other members can address them. For example 1. Spotlight not working, could this be switch related and if so what is the fix. I think it would make it easier. Good luck getting everything sorted out and cool looking rig.
If I’m going to spend that much money I would go to the Dealer and test drive one, I would also compare options on the old versus the new. That way I can make my decision based on my observations.
You should be good with a newer model, 2017 would be my choice staying away from the 2015 model change. Check the service records on the one you find to purchase. I would look at the owners manual and do the recommended 100,000 mile service on the one you purchase. Carfax and Dealer records is a...
As others have said do the work yourself if you can or buy the parts at Rockauto and pay the mechanic $50 an hour. He has mechanical skills so different model should not matter. He can look up YouTube’s as well if he is uncertain on a repair. You will pay a Dealer full retail for parts and...
Even if they come back no sound, drove it like you suggested, my butt would be there taking someone for a drive, preferably the Service Manager. Good luck hope they get it sorted out.
Just to let you know some are happy with the conversion and some are not and end up going back to the original shocks. I would look at Rockauto for the parts and use the 5% discount code listed on the home page at the top of the page” preferred vendor sales”.
That would be great if you can get it repaired instead of just having to throw it away. You are lucky you have a hydraulic repair shop. I’m sure a lot of cities don’t have one. You will have to keep us updated on the repair and the cost.
You do have to be careful with these new rigs changing batteries. One little spark and it can throw a code that the Dealer has to clear. Unhooking the negative battery cable does not always work.
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