Well I'm 99% confident it's not in the same universe as the stainless I used to mill down into landing gear. They are probably at least 5% marshmallow mixed in with the iron, cobalt,and nickel.
I would just install new MLS (multi-layer steel) manifold gaskets, and new bolts or studs, and call it a day.
Shorty headers provide zero performace gain over the factory LS cast manifolds. So, unless you want the look or sound (might do something?), then you're just burning money...
Here is a torque chart for LS engines, I'm pretty sure you're correct on the torque values for the water pump: https://www.bakesonline.com/media/resourcelibrary/Indmar_6.0LQ9RepairSpecs.pdf (page 6-3)
The tool to do the A/C belt is something like this, but I've never used one before...
I just threw an LY6 6.0 from a Sierra 2500HD in my 1500 Yukon, after stripping it down to the bare block, and rebuilding it.
Added a cam and some .560 valve springs, and deleted the VVT. Also replaced the torque converter while the engine was out.
My cam is a clone of the BTR Truck Norris...
It's pretty straighforward. Hardest part is making a mess, and maybe getting the two heater hoses off the right left of the water pump... they were sticky with age. You can do it in well under an hour, including bleeding the air out of the coolant system.
I didn't use any RTV or gasket sealer...
Kept it going straight down the interstate at 75mph when something blew out my back tire. I pulled over within 10 seconds, but the sidewall had blown out.
The plan was to buy new not-winter tires over the winter, but that timetable was moved up to today. Also got a $42 vet discount on...
Looks like this hood: https://www.bmcextremecustoms.net/20gmcyuheexh.html
From this thread: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/yukon-bmc-cowl-hood.120700/
This is some of the worst & pedantic marketing **** that people inject straight into their veins...
If you need torque, your transmission will shift into the a lower gear and get you into the usable power area. No one one Earth is rooting for Team Lug-My-Engine, unless you're all about burning...
I need to get one in 1/2", and then also get a 3/8" breaker bar to spare my 3/8" ratchet. It's a 15 year old trooper that has held up to every hammer blow I've dealt it.
I soaked the threads in the People's Blaster for three days before today, and they popped loose with almost no effort.
A loooooong 7/8ths wrench can reach in there too, but might not give the best grip on the hex head of the sensor.
This socket: https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/sensor-wrench/p/duralast-7-8-22mm-oxygen-sensor-socket/1266606_0_0?spps.s=3218
And, I was lucky to already have this ratchet...
Installed new upstream O2 sensors. It's easy with the correct socket - the tall one, not the short junk.
Ordered OEM GM from Rock Auto and got Denso manufactured units. Old ones were Made in USA-marked Densos, as well, but a different design. No clue how old they were.
The only problem VVT has is the abysmal lack of aftermarket support. (
Also, huge bottom-end torque isn't really the end-all in vehicles with transmissions that shift gears when torque [multiplication] is really needed. Long-tube headers and a tune will give you better low-end torque than a cam...
The Junglewebsite has those same pics, and it looks like it fits, but thebjne review with photos said the poly bushing was too thick to fit into the collar.
What technique did you use to drive the bushing home?
The VVT probably isn't making that much of a difference over the non-VVT engine equivalent.
It's been discussed here before, but VVT on our engines simply can't do much with a single cam controlling both the intake and exhaust valves, compared to the huge benefits VVT can provide to DOHC...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.