Well the AFM is on cylinders 1, 7 and 4, 6 - so we're on the right track.
Could be a stuck AFM lifter or the solenoid for cyl #1 on the VLOM is dead.
- Both would account for a PO301.
- Low or lack of oil pressure registering to the cyl #1 solenoid
- An inactive solenoid would also...
With the AFM/VVT delete, cam/heads/exhaust, 3.73 gears and a 3200 stall converter I'm still getting 19.5mpg on the highway.
Delete it all and enjoy the drive!
Yes, there are 2 bolt that go through the oil pan up into the bottom of the timing cover; you have to remove them.
Also, you'll probably want to remove the crank bolt to remove the cover, if not it will/could damage the crank seal..........but I will recommend replacing that since you're in...
Mine was already OEM remote start prepped (RPO AP8)
I bought the kit (2 OEM remotes and the code for the dealer to enable/activate). The dealer charged me 1 hr labor to install and program the remotes.
I know there are other options, but I did not want to install more wiring and shit
Yes, I'm going to use the compressor as I have before, 90psi and good to go.
After 30+ years of wrenching, I use the right tool for the job. I will not have time to F' around if I damage a valve guide seal. This really the only LS specific tool I don't have on hand at home, so its well with the...
Heat is the killer to all ATs.
I went with the Tru Cool 40k cooler in addition to the OEM cooler. I also installed the B&M deep aluminum finned pan which holds an additional 2 qts of fluid.
The highest I have seen my trans temps are 138-140* and thats while driving it hard.
Drive the nose up on to ramps, pop the cap, turn the heat on and let it run for a bit. With the nose up it should burp out the air bubbles and air pockets pretty quick.
My truck runs between 197-201* regardless of the ambient air temp.
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