Wow. I left my oil valve in the oil pan too.
NOTE: I did a VVT & AFM delete with the cam swap. I have almost 5500 miles on the build.
Cold/start up - 51-55psi
Op Temp - 41-45psi
Driving - 46-55psi
What color o ring did you use on your oil pick up tube?
Yes, the only design element I do not like. I know several of my buddies have just had custom inlet tubes made to pull air from another location.
I will fab a custom tube to pull the air from where the secondary battery would be located. Also I will either wrap or have the tube coated limit...
I'm will be selling my LSA blower to fund the engine build and when the time comes I will go with a Procharger as well.
1) less heat soak
2) super quick install
3) weight savings over a Maggie/LSA/Whipple
4) self contained oil
5) no coolant system needed (expansion tank, pump or heat exchanger...
Well $3200 to build my short block to "My" spec
tanked/cleaned, bored, decked, ring gapped for boost, all new bearings and fully balanced forged rotating assembly!
FUCVK it you only live once!
Also for a note to the masses.
If you get larger injectors, you can't just slap them in and start the truck up. You need to have the tune scaled for the injectors or you'll just flood your cylinders with excess fuel and foul your plugs out.
Then order a set from Texas Speed. Mine are 1 3/4 and 3" collectors, but friendly on the bank account. I've had mine on the truck for almost a year now.
The trick with a stall converter is the tune.
Around town driving like a normal person you'd never know it has a converter in it. On the highway it locks up quick. If you put your foot into it, it will shit and get.
Last road trip I got 19.5mpg (was mixed highway & local roads)
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