Another thing to consider... where are you located?
I think this i your first post and no location data. If you live in flatter areas you could get away with 4.10s etc. But if you live in the foothills or mountains you may need even deeper gears than we would usually suggest.
4.56s. You will only pick up an extra 300 rpm at 65. The mpg loss at that point is more likely from rolling resistance/weight of the 35s and the aerodynamic drag of the extra height required to clear the 35s.
If you dont have traction control you could hit up a junkyard and grab a hyroboost master cylinder from a 3500 and see if the bolt patterens are the same or close. Then get a new one using the junkyard one for a core. The 3500 has a 37mm piston vs the tahoe 34mm.
The boosters have a different...
I just priced a comparatively similar new tahoe to replace mine... yeah it was 2/3s the price of my house. Not happening. Anything within 10 years of today is ridiculous in price as well. So no replacement anytime soon...
Also the local chevy dealer has this on the lot for 6,999. .
You could get a manual 241 transfer case and get around all of the electronic crap. But you will most likely need to get different driveshafts. But i do not kjow for sure
Eh, hit the junkyard and grab one rod and piston combo and throw her back together. Did that with a 4.8 years ago because a guy i know drove through deep water and did basically the same thing. Truck ran for another 50k miles before he traded it in for a 2500 hd.
I think some of his post was lost in translation from his native tongue to English, so there is part of what you were seeing.
Im going to assume that the (axle) in question was the term for (shaft) input or output... possibly (crank) as there was also mention of engine. I deal with translated...
Valvoline and ac delco filters from about 11,000 miles to 120k
After that it was 5w30 oriellys house sauce and ac delco or microguard till 395k
Now it gets 10w30 in the winter and 10w40 in the summer at 410k
Subtract this from 410,002 and that is when the father in law bought it.
Any decent...
Im about 80 percent sure the ecm split is 03-05 and then 06 (SUV) and 06-07 Classic trucks is how it goes. Because GM changed the way the TAC module works. But there may also be a BCM/ECM issue where the Fuel gauge reads backwards. Again I don't remember the year split.
But, seeing as it would...
Nothing special, put the old 4114 bulbs back in the DRLs since one of the LEDs died. Apparently the Driver side drl/turn signal housing has a leak. Had a half inch of water in it that wasnt in there 2 days ago. We did have a few storms the last few days but damn. Well.... guess it is time for...
I believe he was refering to Torque Management cutting power between shifts.
My 06 Silverado with a brand new 65e has laggy 1-2 shifts at anything under half throttle. Ive looked at the shift times completion table and out of tow/haul mode it is factory set for .6 seconds under half throttle. So...
Well with the number one problem being a random, and as far as i can research " mostly unexplained " crank and no start... i would pass. I would do an 8.1 though. But in the Tahoe, even a 6.0 is more than i need.
285/70r16 31.7 inches
285/75r16 32.8 inches
285/70r17. 32.7 inches
285/75r18 33.8 inches
Since you said close to 31s im guessing you have the285/70s on 16 inch wheels.
If that is the case i would probably think about 4.11s as at 70 you would still have a reasonable rpm of 2150ish
If you...
As a industrial maintenance/electrical worker i can tell you that automotive wiring is done so cheaply it is frightening. And i was a GM tech when this platform was new (August 04- may 06), and at the time we had big problems was ith the H2s and H3s. Yeah, they say HUMMER but they are glorified...
Not the Tahoe but the 06 Silverado, did the main brake line that runs from the ABS unit to the rear axle yesterday.
Daughter called me and says " my brake pedal doesn't work and i can't slow down right.."
So i walk her through down shifting and using a combination of brake pedal and parking...
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