I just scored a genuine GM Tech 2 a few hours ago. Was scanning Craigslist and OfferUp for months, found one on OfferUp today, picked it up a few hours ago for $400
Tech 2, CANdi module, PCMCIA card with 32.007
Already loving it, hooked it up to the vette and Tahoe and went deep into most menus.
Remove belt from cold engine, start engine and listen. This will eliminate the belt, pulleys and accessories. Dont run it for more than a minute or two.
If you dont hear it anymore then one of them is the issue, while the belt is off spin each by hand and listen or feel.
I just had a ticking...
U joints.
Possible trans or motor mounts.
Drive 70 and put it in neutral and see if it vibrates, if it does, u joints or driveshaft bent or out of balance.
Im sure your fuel trims were all jacked up from constant pressure changes while driving. I would reset that / batt disconnect, then drive it and let it relearn.
Constant temps of under 200 is fine, hitting 230 for short big uphill climbs while towing is also normal.
Higher the ambient temps the higher the trans temps.
Yes I completely understand this. Phoenix is only 1400 ft but at 60 psi the fuel should not be an issue since 60 psi is 60 psi. Boiling water is at atmospheric pressure which varies with altitude unless you have a pressure cooker.
Where do you guys live that are wrapping your fuel lines?
Just curious as I live in Phoenix and it was 111 the other day in rush hour for my 30 mile drive with the AC on high and I don’t have any fuel lines wrapped or vapor lock.
There must be something else going on.
I would think that a cracked block or blown head gasket would show one of several symptoms........water in oil, a cylinder misfire, low coolant level from combustion gases over pressurizing the cooling system, white smoke out the tail pipe, etc. But for overheating it will be due to low coolant...
Same diameter just higher quality rotor for no warp. Pads have great friction coefficient and no fade (I drive it like my vette minus 120hp) and it stops on a dime. Police calipers have silicone instead of rubber seals for double the heat capacity before things melt and fail.
Im seeing two people here having the exact same problem?
Is it "overheating" when driving slow in the city or at highway speeds?
Is the fluid boiling out or any loss/overflow?
Is it REALLY overheating or is it a sensor/electrical problem?
Full coolant, new thermostat, fans working would all...
I did the "loaded" Police calipers with police pads from Rockauto, slotted only R1 carbon geomet rotors from R1concepts.....had them cryo treated. Very happy with the results.
As always you will have to be certain that you REALLY are running that hot.
You may have to install an analog temp gauge (not electrical) to co-witness these supposed temps.
I dont see why the truck would shut off unless it really is so hot that there is a vapor lock situation going on from...
Sweating accumulator only tells so much. In your neck of the woods the dew point may be 65 degrees because of the high humidity. At that point at least you know there is Freon in it and the compressor is doing something.
Now take me in Phoenix today with 110 and dew point of 25 degrees at 5%...
WHEN this happens is the blower on high or low? If you live in a humid area and use low blower you get close to freezing the moisture. Your system should cycle the low side to prevent this. It may be not cycling correctly or low on refrigerant causing partial then total freeze.
Next time...
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