I'm hoping that, by keeping mine parked inside in the dark >90% of the time, my cheap housings will stay clear for a good long while. Thanks for the pic!
I found later that those are the ones kbuskill has. They're not as easy as retrofitting into an already projector housing such as yours. But, they seem to be the easiest option due to their size for retro'ing reflector housings.
I was Googling for images and these are the best looking ones I've found. I happen to have these housings already so I saved the link and pic for later reference.
Oh, I'm not buying them! I just saved that pic and the link to have more pics for ideas for inspiration. I already have the black housings with clear reflector. I'm researching retrofitting a small but good projector into them. I don't care much for the look of projectors cuz they look like...
Grab a small flat blade screwdriver, a bright flashlight and a rubber mallet and slide underneath it. Use your rubber mallet to knock on the catalytic converters to listen for the guts rattling. Failing that, pop off the inspection cover (round stainless cap with three notches, about 2"...
I was messing around in the shop the other day and realized I had a set of those headlights you modded- the ones that are black with the clear reflector. Was aiming to throw 'em in as-is with all LEDs but can't help but to consider doing the "right thing" with a projector retrofit. I re-read...
I would've asked the same as Tony- The major auto parts stores here loan tools. It's really not even a rental. You buy it under the loan-a-tool program and get your money back when you return it. Maybe that's not a thing down there.
As for bushings, polyurethane is really stiff and you'll...
Jeebus.
How does it idle and drive? Make any odd sound when starting? Does the sound change when in gear and engine under load? How does the oil look- any glitter?
No clamps. If the press fit isn't secure enough, it's a botched connection and should be redone. These connections have been OE and reliable for decades and millions of miles.
Both are PTC (push-to-connect). The top one is the traditional one found on fuel lines and requires a tool to release the locks. The bottom one you just push the large white part in to release the locks. I'd assume the top one is more secure than the other and that's why it's used on wet fuel...
You can buy the nylon line in bulk. The fittings, such as what @89Suburban has in his first link, press in. There are tools to press the fittings into the lines, such as this one. I converted to a Blazer fuel tank in my S10 and made my own nylon lines. I only needed to make up a few...
The electric plugs that go to the shocks have two wires. You put the resistor across these two wires. One wire goes to one side of the resistor, the other wire goes to the other side. I soldered mine and covered with heat shrink. I swear I posted pics somewhere, but I can't find 'em...
This was my experience with my Tahoe. The info I found online said the system maintains a minimum pressure (5 psi, IIRC) when unloaded and this resulted in about 1/2" of lift from "deflated". These things have far more than 1/2" of rake.
I wouldn't say need. The springs for the ALC-equipped models are only marginally softer. I'd let his frequency or weight of towing/cargo carrying determine this. Otherwise, I'd get some quality shocks and enjoy the more compliant ride.
Yup. You have ALC (Auto-Level Control) suspension and those air sleeves on the shocks are deteriorated. The usual chain of events is they wear through and leak and the compressor runs more than necessary. The leaks get worse and the compressor eventually runs itself to death. You can replace...
Weren't hackers already doing this a few years ago? Hacking new cars through their WiFi or other radio system and controlling them, including shutting them down while on the road?
It's an electric compressor located in the left rear corner on the side of the frame rail, outer side between the frame and bumper cover. You'll see it when you're inspecting the shocks.
Being where I live, I'm terrible at considering freezing temperatures. The Gov-Lock requires an oil with special friction modifiers to operate properly. So, if it's full of wear debris, making it thicker, I could see how being more viscous from freezing temps could really alter its function...
Welcome to TYF and congrats on the low-mileage find!
I haven't looked in a Chilton or Haynes manual in YEARS. The internet and forums such as this one you're on now have made them almost obsolete. You can be walked through damned-near anything on your rig or referred to threads where others...
Just see what parts were used to lower it and swap them out with stock parts. There are people all over with lifted and lowered rigs that would give away or cheaply sell their stock parts. I see 'em all the time on Marketplace. Or, tell us where you're at and maybe there's a forum member...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.