From someone that plugged theirs- it's not necessary at all. I definitely wouldn't do it if I had no other reason to have the pan off.
I plugged mine because the valve is set to pop at something like 55-60 psi. There's a pressure release valve built into the oil pump that is open around 50-55...
I used the same one Ron linked you to. I only had it about 1.5-2 years but I subjected it to 70+ PSI many times. I gave it to my buddy when I installed an engine oil cooler and he's been running it for about a year now with no problems. He even reused the O-ring...
Did you program the keys yourself after having them cut?
Oooo... They have all kinds of options: https://a.co/d/2mpmPJ7 or https://a.co/d/aaFufpA seems cool.
Have a Harbor Freight around you? Invest $8 in a mechanic's stethoscope >HERE<. You'll pinpoint the source and won't have to remove anything or break out any tools. Removing the belt likely would stop the sound, but there are six accessory pulleys so you'd still have to narrow it down. Also...
The thing is, you're not gonna make anything worse by adding it. The roof and firewall (or more of forward floorboard and the wheel arches) are other hotspots for sound. When I pull my headliner to dye it, I'll insulate the roof.
The pressure release valve has been known to get stuck open. I think the story I recall seeing was an aluminum shaving left behind from machining wedged the piston in the bore at the open position so it was always bleeding off the pressurized oil. RPM above idle was enough to overcome the...
All the ones I've done, they stayed on the vehicle. Just unbolted the cat-back pipe and wired it to the side and took a hammer, pry bar, large screwdriver and whatever else would fit in the hole to the ceramic. Periodically start the car and rev it to blow out the dust and chunks. Repeat as...
-10dB is perceived by the human ear as half as loud. 45% of that is significant.
There are free phone apps for measuring dB. I use Decibel X. I can't say how accurate they are compared to actual test equipment. But for comparison, they should be fine. I'd like to know how an app compares...
And this steers me back to an AFM-related issue. AFM cylinders are 1, 4, 6 and 7. Yes, there's a #8, but its count is much lower and could be a false detection from the adjoining cylinders. Or, it's the low oil pressure affecting all the lifters but affecting the AFM ones more.
Has anyone checked the wiring that powers and grounds the pump? Check the wires themselves, the metal contacts inside the connectors, etc. Check 'em at each end. Unplug the connector(s) on the FSCM, inspect, maybe spray with some contact cleaner, then firmly plug back in. The fuel pump is an...
Oof. Yeah, it's well known that using aftermarket major internal components isn't worth the risk. It's definitely a do it right or do it twice thing. The videos really do sound like a lifter(s), but we still gotta rule out all the other things. Have you verified the spark plugs and wires...
Overfill the oil by 1.5-2 quarts and put your Suburban in a nosedive. See if the idle oil pressure and ticking improves. The lifters are hydraulic so low oil pressure can basically be like they're collapsed. For a regular lifter, this is usually just noisy. An AFM lifter can collapse enough...
Cammed, catless and tuned to exaggerate the idle lope rather than smooth/hide it lol. No visual or butt sniffs here. They test the gas cap seal and plug in to the ALDL to check readiness monitors.
For visual cat test, I'd just run exhaust tubing through the stock cat shell. It'll have the...
What speakers? A component set with the separate woofer, crossover and tweeter?
The Bose amp already crosses over frequencies for each speaker. I'd connect the tweeter to the factory wires as-is. A component set is mostly a waste since the frequencies have already been modified for the...
This looks like you: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/members/thingraylinetah.89882/
Similar name. All the same, just missing "oe" at the end.
Your thread is still here: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/thin-gray-line-tahoe-build.130075/
I'm not the one to have any recommendations for such scanners. But, you still have some free preliminary troubleshooting to do. With it idling, have the windows down and pop the hood. Shake and tug test all the wiring, starting at the battery. I wouldn't worry with the engine sensor...
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