Yeah, I would define “major” trimming when you’re getting into the outer fender and paint/body work is needed.
Of course, offset is critical also. I do rub the UCAs at full lock.
No, I just went ahead and did it my damn self. Maybe people are too scared to attempt 37s and with a 6” lift because they listen to people on the internet. They stop before ever getting started.
Local shop suggested the ratio. They installed my Kryptonite tie rods, so I felt good going back. Very slight whine can be heard over the mud tires sometimes. I also went with a Yukon diff cover, but it’s blocked by a 33 inch spare (I have a 37 inch spare to test fit…will it fit hmmm).
This just happened to me. I couldn’t see it from up top, but looking through the fender well the plug wire was disconnected from the plug. 4K miles after replacing the lifters, so you know I was thinking DoD again.
I pulled the liner off for the pic. A little more trimming to do on the rear part of the fender.
The 3.08s were a dog with the 285/70r18s, so I wasn't about to leave them in for this bigger/heavier setup. It's drives effortlessly up hills now with the new gears. No problems turning the 37s...
It’s so nice to drive now with the new gears. I’m still breaking them in, but it’s not bogging down going up hills now. I feel better having the posi versus the factory locker.
I had to cut some metal from the rear part of the fender. More so on the passenger side which was weird. I also did...
Agreed.
I need as much clearance as possible for those events especially around the rear part of the fender. I used to rub there with my current setup turning into an incline. I had to push the liner back a little.
Mock up:
Cooper Discoverer 37x12.50r17 Actual measurement 35.5"
Factory Steelie 17x8 +24mm
117 lbs wheel + tire
Current setup:
285/70-18 (33.7") Actual measurement 32.5"
KMC 18x9 +18mm
97 lbs wheel + tire
I would have to trim or remove some plastic here.
Slight contact on the rear section...
Hi,
It seems like some vent tube has come unhooked near the rear axle. The tube is routed up over the frame up to the driver quarter panel near the rear bumper where it terminates with a black cap. Ideas?
I bought the adjustable Energy Suspension fronts, but rode around with the sway bar disconnected and kinda like it. I don’t think I’m going to reinstall the front endlinks.
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