Ok using a ratchet strap on the axle i was able to get it pushed in enough.
However, my magnet is still too big so I am off to the parts store to see if they have smaller ones.
Factory 6.2 y pipe is definitely larger than the 5.3 one right? I am talking where the pipes meet the manifold. The 5.3 is soooooo narrow doesn't even look like 2.5
Yeah the ticking I can live with, it's the weird tinny air sound that I don't like.
With manifolds I hear the valvetrain, but the exhaust sounds 10x better while accelerating in the cabin. It's just like you said, where the collector ends which is right by the floor pan.
Yeah it kinda sucks. I wonder if adding a resonator right after the bend on the drivers side y pipe connection would fix it. Only way to fit one would be to cut the pipe though.
For the 6.2, I have the 5.3 already.
I have Kooks 1 7/8" catted headers already into a Corsa. I am considering going to manifolds + blower on this truck to bring the comfort back. I do not like the way headers sound in the cabin on this truck. You hear all the air moving constantly through...
Some people have remarked the locker is optimal for snow and the posi can have issues with both tires spinning.
Not sure if it applies to this truetrac.
The ls9 cam is a poor n/a cam. It has a super late intake valve close event which reduces cylinder pressure. Good for blower.
Go with stock vvt cam or a small aftermarket vvt cam. I custom specced the one in my sig and it makes awesome torque down low.
Depends on what your goals are...
To give the rear more chance to live, should we always be in 4WD auto for spirited runs? Or will that make zero difference?
I guess hard launches should always be in 4WD hi? I'm mainly talking about hard street runs with a hard 1-2 shift that screeches the tires.
Yeah they do. I'm worried about the driveshaft part, if it's too short then I would be weeks away from having the truck ready.
I wanna get this thing back on the road quickly. At my power level, I am confident the stock 8.6 ring gear with the beefed up diff will be plenty strong.
It's a direct bolt in including wiring. Just don't buy Johnson lifters. Or if you do, measure your lifter bores. Delete DOD while you're there and put in Morel dropin replacement lifters or LS7 lifters.
Other than my annoying lifter tap, my swap went really well. I just grenaded my diff...
Haha yup. The ring gear looked fine. I saw no cracks in the housing, all the fluid still there. I am going to just swap out the diff.
If I have trouble, then I will pickup a stock replacement since I now know they're readily available somewhat locally.
From what I read from randeez 14 bolt...
Ok so the 14 bolt is not a direct swap it seems you need a custom driveshaft.
I don't want to mess with all these unknowns..
So I either roll the dice and try to fix it with the truetrac
Or I just grab another junkyard 10 bolt to get it quickly back on the road.
Called place and verified it's 14 bolt, 3.42 and 9.5 ring gear. Comes as entire axle assembly. I'd much rather do this, can have truck back on road by Monday rather than fiddling around with something I've never done before.
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