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Last but not least... the BMW Z4 3.0 No pictures of that ride.
Everything is spread out between 2 states, one winter home and the other our summer home.
95% probability it's the sending unit. It's a common LS problem. It happened on my Z06 and I relocated the sensor in case of a subsequent failure (has happened numerous times). Jegs had everything I needed for the relocation for 15 bucks.
TR6s have been known to cause charging issues, causing no-charge trouble codes. There's a ton of internet info on them. Go with the TR6IX. I know about this as I had the problem myself, until I switched plugs.
Don't ingest it but a simple "taste" of the froth will tell if it contains glycol. If it does then it's not condensation and time to pull the engine apart. I've used this method numerous times.
That's why I opted out of this thread as far as giving any more advice. The OP is making a poor decision, period (like I said, his $$). Others aren't giving good advice either.
That crank rod bearing journal is going to be hosed if there is ANY audible knock, which there is. The crank WILL...
You're going to be out +/-$3K in the long run with your current plan and stuck with a rebuilt engine from an unknown (to me) rebuilder.
For a bit over $2K you have a completely new engine with a GM 24 mo, 36K mile engine warranty.
I've got over 50 years of seeing scenarios play out like this...
Wow, 700 bucks for a high mileage engine at or near the rebuild stage. I'd walk first and not waste my hard earned $$. Your money...
The people you're talking to are right. If one rod bearing is gone then the rest are not far behind. Don't waste your time on an attempted/failed short term fix...
Not really... You need vortec heads for your intake manifold. That alone eliminates the cheap stuff. Your other alternative is to rebuild what you have. It could very easy approach $2K anyway.
Expect $1000+ for a complete rebuild. How many miles on the engine/Yukon? Are you planning on keeping it for quite a while? If so, rebuild what you have. If you're going to get rid of it then get a used engine.
Pull the oil filter and cut/peel the metal can back. Inspect between the pleats of the filter media. If you see any metal flakes it's time to pull the engine.
LS sending units are very problematic and have a failure history of doing exactly what you've described. Mine died in the same fashion on my Z06 and it's sort of a PITA to get to. I installed a "pig tail" to make future replacements easy.
No, they're real, not "dummy" gauges. Don't know where...
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