I dont want to get too far off track but ....as far as the Castech issue is concerned...my local machinist had a similar story. The cracks can be very fine and unable to see. Head must be checked with a two part penetrant and developer. MagnaFlux is ineffective with non-ferrous aluminum heads...
Just check your overflow bottle for bubbles coming up as you rev the engine slightly up and down at idle. No need for an exhaust gas tester this way. Make sure the engine heats up with the overflow bottle cap off.
If I remove the striker then the door just touches the rear door near the top. I'll take before and after pictures.
If I take it back to the body shop they will just mess something else up. I'll go there if all else fails.
Again. Does it make the noise with the engine off yanking the wheel left and right? Reason I ask is because you think it's the lower column bearing. If there is no noise behind the dash doing this test then it isnt the lower column bearing for sure. Remember you aren't trying to actually turn...
A bad steering column bearing would cause slack grabbing the wheel pushing in and pulling out. Can you replicate that? The lower column bearings are plastic in a green plastic race. The noise you are presenting is a loud metal on metal clunk indicating a linkage issue. Bad idler or pitman arms...
Well there is no way a lock to lock metallic clunk is caused by anything in the dash. The column parts inside the dash don't stop or limit lock to lock action. Aside from the clock spring, rotating steering column parts are for the most part free wheeling. There is nothing to hit/clunk against.
No ive never replaced the bushings. I assumed the body shop did that since it's a new door. Even if I were to put new bushings in I can only lift up on the door maybe 1/8 inch. That's not nearly enough slack to fix the alignment with new bushings. It seems more likely that all i need to do is...
Do those prelim tests i talked about today and narrow it down to linkage or column. Then we can discuss more. At 120k you are still to asume the worst looking at replacing all linkage components (idler, pitman arms, inner/outer tie rods, etc)...especially on a vehicle with no history and you...
If its making a clunk noise then the intermediate shaft is something that needs to be replaced. Usually seems like clockwork every 30-50k. If it's never been done then add that to your list.
Pray it isn't the lower column bearing. You have to remove the entire column and replace the steering...
Sounds like a loose steering component. Can you replicate the sound with the engine off and yanking the steering wheel back and forth? If so then it's a column issue. If not then the loose component is in the steering linkage down below after the steering gear. A clanking sound like that could...
We bought a GMC Envoy a while back. The previous owner put plain water in the washer tank. Long story short...all the water froze in the lines and burst the tailgate check valve and rear wiper lines. It was a wet mess after unthawing everything under the tailgate trim.
Right. If you do have hydro boost the vehicle will have an auxiliary brake boost pump. It makes a distinctive "woosh" noise emanating from behind the dash area. The pump is tested the first time you reach 10 mph after startup. If it's the same noise as that then you found the answer.
I'm looking for a simple proceedure to adjust my passenger door. The latch side of the door is down about 1/2 inch from the striker on the body side door pillar. If I slam the door closed it latches but not exact. It takes some force to close the door. I lifted up on the latch end of the door...
Noise could be the auxiliary brake booster pump engaging. I know it makes noise at low rpm when there is a traction control event that limits wheel rotation so you don't fishtail all over the place. I tried to do the exact wheel spin on an icy driveway yesterday and I got pretty much the same...
Yw. Could also be a bad head gasket or slow leaking radiator or heater cores if no antifreeze shows up in analysis. I also talked to my local machine shop a few months back about the castech issue. They said that sometimes the crack(s) in the head are so fine that it won't start to leak until...
It just said POS for POSITIVE. It's a determination based upon certain elements in the oil like silicon, boron, sodium, etc. What lead me onto it was a clear sweet tasting condensate on the underside of oil cap. Not scientific but what else can be sweet tasting in an engine? Definitely not the...
I went through the same ordeal. You will want to get an oil analysis to check for antifreeze in the oil. If the test comes back positive then you have a crack in the cylinder head more than likely.
ACDelco Original Equipment, Airtex or Bosch is going to be best in the long run imho. I would skip store, ACDelco Professional or ACDelco Advantage brands. They tend to be cbeaper made in China. I just bought a Bosch fuel pump on Amazon a year ago. It was around $110 open box. The hardest part...
Today I pressed the lock button on the key fob and no horn sound after second, third or fourth press. It finally honked after the fifth press. The front door is also somewhat hard to close. Not sure if I should be doing all this work or just have body shop do it since the door was replaced last...
I guarantee those hubs have already been replaced at least once by 170k. The vibrations from a few raps with a regular carpenters hammer loosens much more in my experience then a 2 lb dead blow. I wouldnt go above a 2 lb mini sledge though. Another route is to buy used knuckles from ebay or junk...
I would get a separate oil pressure gauge connected to an oil galley plug or some separate test port on the block to make sure the pressure is verified ok. This will pretty much give you the confidence to know that either your wiring, connections or sensor is the issue and not a plugged galley...
Hey guys. I just wanted to see what anyone thinks about an apparent electrical issue I am having.
I have noticed that if I leave my Tahoe unlocked in front of my home for a few minutes and then go back to open the passenger door from the outside...the dome light sometimes will not come on. If I...
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