Well here is the much needed and helpful news all of you have been waiting for!
(spoiler alert) What I can tell you is that my leak is not from any of the sensors I removed. those were dry. Ok...read on.
So in a nutshell this is was I did today:
Basically I raised the front on jackstands and...
Hey Matt. I would start another thread for further questions (no matter how related they may seem) This is my thread. You'll get more visibility with your own I assure you. A service manual has all the pictures you need. I'll give this one to ya but I'm pretty tired answering questions that can...
You don't need anything in those rivet holes anymore to keep the gasket from moving around. The new gasket (as shown above) grips the bolts a tiny bit and holds them in place while lifting up the pan.
It has to be either the oil pan level sensor, crank position sensor, block off plate gasket or ....it could be those waffle areas in question.
I put RTV on them as you know...but they could be way off the mark. Shame on me for not following direction? We will see. I did "eyeball it" Famous last...
Less than 200
Less than 1000 miles. The Tahoe is our tow vehicle during the summer so it sees little winter use. I noticed on my driveway that I have a small leak..post seal replacement. I messed something up but it isn't a huge leak. Working on that come spring. Too cold right now to want to...
I saw that waffle shape area on my gasket as well. I don't know for sure if those are the areas that match the block. I did apply the RTV on those waffle areas but I may have been mistaken. The instructions do say..."apply directly to the block".
All along the back side? Wow. Definitely not reading instructions or trusting the oil pan gasket to do it's job. Again, all we are doing here is just filling in those small gaps caused by the front and rear covers. Once you see the areas on the block corner you will understand.
Well if you go by the service manual (I use Alldatadiy.com) it tells you to apply a specific sealant at each of the 4 corners where there is a gap from where the front and rear main covers interface with the block. It's a safe bet to follow the service manual for this step. Especially if you see...
Don't mess with the steering linkage...
All you need to do is remove both front axles to give you enough slack to properly lower the front differential. Once the axles are disconnected...you have essentially isolated the steering linkage from the knuckle which the axles go through.
For the...
If I had to do it all over again I would just remove the front differential completely. Most especially if you know of any differential issues like ring gear or bearing damage. You would more than likely need to dismantle the differential in these cases regardless...so....
Overall it's...
Gosh darn it. Ive got a couple baseball sized wet spots under the truck. obviously a leak of some kind. I'll have to get up under there tonight and check it out. Hopefully it's the oil level sensor or block off plate gaskets.
Just got a new air cleaner housing today from the dealership. I noticed the factory one under the hood was cracked at one of the screw locations. Possibly bypassing a bunch of dirt. Couldn't really figure out why the top part was cracked because I never saw it like that before and I never over...
I didn't think it was fun. Cleanup was a mess. Those YouTube videos by Rickafix and Spelunkerd don't even begin to go into detail of just how messy a job this is. Perhaps if you lived in Texas with no leaks or rust... then maybe....maybe easier (absolutely in no way fun) job.
I would need a...
Which treatment are you thinking of? Silicates in oil or oil treatments of any kind is a big no-no in the industry. Silicon leads to catalytic converter failure. The only way you would find silicon in oil is from silicate coolant or sand infiltration.
Here is a pic the following day just after adding oil. Cold engine at idle and cold oil of course. I had to let the gasket rtv cure overnight. It's the factory oil pump at 175k
Great question. I looked at it today and was wondering the same how oil temperature might come into play lowering the pressure as it almost always does.
When hot the oil pressure turns out to be:
35 psi @ idle (0w-20)
55 psi @ 2500 rpm (0w-20)
I'll snap a pic or two so you have some proof. I...
If I knew what I know now....at 200k I would be rebuilding the heads, replacing lifters and pushrods (maybe rocker arms if worn) and pulling the pan to replace oil seal and pan gasket.
People say it's not much more work to replace camshaft...but I've heard taking the balancer off can be a bear.
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