Pulled the PCM connectors and found like oil looking shit inside the PCM and all over the connectors. It didn't smell like oil but I don't know where it came from
Cleaned the grounds very well yesterday. Didn't change a thing. This truck surprisingly is not rotted out like most of the other ones in Ohio.
I got my second replacement cluster and the DIC is still not as bright as my last truck. But the thing that's absolutely pissing me off and making me...
I think we've all been there smacking the dash lol. I only did it because I know other people have had to do it, so I wanted to see if that made something happen. But nope. Just hitting the throttle was the only thing that caused the fuel gauge to jump back to life. And this is a fully rebuilt...
Hey Y'all.
I had a faulty cluster in my 04 Burb, the fuel gauge would randomly drop to dashes on the range screen. And then when you hit the gas pedal and gave it decent throttle, at an idle, the gauge would come back to life. I chalked it up to a bad cluster since these are so notorious for...
Alright I got sidetracked and forgot about this post. The grey wire is supposed to be from the wiper motor to connector C201, then to the wiper switch. A junkyard trip proved that another 04 Z71 Suburban had the right color wires...what I did for that was cut the yellow wire on the wiper motor...
I've noticed that it will lock if I hit the lock button on the fob 3 or 4 times. It's not that it doesn't lock at all. Just takes a few locks to get it to lock. Unlocks just fine. Yeah I was at the junkyard yesterday but I didn't take my torx bits with me so I didn't get it.
Hey y'all.
I've got an 04 Z71 Burb with the Flex 5.3. I was doing some cleaning and checking things out and I noticed some strange wiring. I noticed that a yellow wire on the brown C3 connector of the bcm was cut, and a grey wire was wired to it.
Using alldata I got the diagrams and the...
Hey Y'all.
Got an 04 Burb Z71. Here's the issue at hand.
Unlocking with the key fob all doors unlock great. No issues. BUT, when locking the doors the passenger door won't lock with the fob or button. Unlocks just fine with fob and button.
I've done tons of door lock actuators on many...
How about instead of being an utter *****, you go read the entire thread like a normal person would. And while you're at it, go read my others. I've replaced everything that people have suggested with OEM stuff. I'm not the problem. But thanks though, that's real mature of you to talk down on...
A circuit code does not mean the sensor is bad. Rule number one, DONT throw parts at it. You don't just replace something because the engine light says the part name. The computer can and will throw a code if something else related in the same system is faulty. That's why you diagnose and test...
It's supposed to be 48-54psi on the flex trucks, even when running. It's supposed to drop when you hit the accelerator then come back up when you're at a steady rpm. Long term fuel trims have been negative for a long time. Never gone to 0 or positive. From what I read on another forum, that's a...
Look Wes, I didn't mean to come off so harsh or mad at you. That wasn't my intentions. So I'm sorry. You've commented on my posts before so I figured you knew some of the issue going on.
The coolant temp sensor is new, as well as the connector because the old one was hanging by a thread in the...
Oh so you're name calling now? Yeah that's real mature. Sorry that I'm getting sick and tired of repeating the same shit over and over again and getting the run around and not much actual help. If I have to repeat myself I get very angry. I didn't use vulgar language or anything or call anyone...
No, you're wrong. I did say what it was reading before. But also, you're wrong on what it should be. GAS engines are 55-60. FLEX engines like mine are 48-54. Delphi pumps do not fail out of the box, trust me. I've been working in the automotive industry for 12 years and alot of that was parts...
I just told you. Sitting 2 or more hours the pressure completely drops to 0. Hit the key and it goes to 45ish. But still has hard start...however before we replaced the pump it didn't matter how many times you cycled the key to prime it, it wouldn't start. Now, if you cycle it it'll fire right up
Fuel pressure when running is 50-51 which is now within spec. Old pump was only at 45 max when running. I got to work at 2, I shut the truck off with it connected and after I shut it off it went to 40psi. After an hour of sitting it was down to 20psi. It's now been two hours and the pressure is...
And how would it be an electrical issue if I have to mash the gas in order for it to start and it dumps fuel out of the exhaust? That's a fuel issue. It loses all pressure within 2 hours. That's a fuel issue. That's not an electrical issue. A purge valve doesn't control fuel pressure.
It's not ground wires. I've already replaced and repaired them all. This isn't my first thread about this. Go check my other ones. I've been fighting this for months. As I said both purge valves have been replaced and are both OEM and new and fine. I have a nice scan tool but it doesn't do tests...
I'm about to just sell this truck. I'm so sick and tired of dumping money into it and it not being fixed. Here's the run down of the issue. It's a 2004 Flex Fuel.
If it sits for more than 2 hours it loses all fuel pressure. In order for it to start you have to push the gas pedal all the way...
If anyone wants to run the RSE through their vehicle speakers, then this part is a must have.
Axxess AIP-35AV6
Best buy stocks it in most stores and it's only 10$. I had to hook it into the AV IN on the back of my Kenwood Excelon DVD receiver, but if you just have a normal single or double...
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