Well I ended up checking crossmember. I used a torque wrench to see if I could tighten it anymore. I got to 145 ft/lbs on each bolt. That equates to maybe 1/2 a turn at best. Suspension does seem a lot better. Haven’t had the loud pop or bang since I’ve replaced everything. I thought I did but...
Well after speaking to a friend of mine that described the same noise in his avalanche and it went away after he did a lift (changed out the whole front suspension), I did the same. I bought all new upper and lower control arms. These were factory replacements with all bushings and ball joints...
Yeah Compustar is the must have on remote starters today. They don’t come cheap but rarely do I ever have to warranty anything out. Usually if I do, it’s a dropped remote
Thought I’d post an update as far as how things are working. So far love it!!! The heat function is way faster and hotter. This is probably due to less heating elements. It heats only the leather areas, not the wooden where the old style heated all the way around. My wife who never notices much...
I sell their products. All of their stuff is top notch but this kit I personally wouldn’t use. You’d have to get some sort of interface (if using this, get a BLADE-AL). I’d use the ft-dc3 with whatever remote you want to use. Doing so allows you to use an ads-thr-gm10 vehicle specific harness...
Thanks. Not sure if you could convert to heat if you didn’t already have it. You might get lucky if you change the clock spring but not totally sure. On these the heat control is inside the shroud so as long as you get power to it you should be fine
On the home stretch now. Thought I was gonna just slap this on but was wrong. The entire inside wiring isn’t the same. Same plugs but different colors and pin placement so I had to modify the original harness.
10th pic is the bag mount from old wheel. You can see it’s shaped much different...
6th picture really pissed me off. No one fessed up but my wheel was dropped and chipped the clear real bad. I wasn’t sure if I could fix it myself but after getting a quote from one of those online wheel reconditioners for $275, I decided to try it out myself. I took a little black with a fine...
Well I finally finished my project. I’m very savvy and I have to say this was way more effort than I expected. I was thinking as long as I picked another wheel that was the same design I’d be fine. That wasn’t the case. These wheels are designed completely different inside. I had serious...
Well I think my sound is actually coming from the rear trailing arms. I’m going to replace all of them once the parts arrive. One lower came in and I replaced the passenger side with it. It already feels better and haven’t heard the actual pop noise since I replaced it
Yes. This is next plan once the weather is decent so I can pry around. Last visual inspection I didn’t see anything. If they aren’t too much I may just replace them anyways
I have before but couldn’t find anything. My past experience with ball joints and control arm bushings is you’ll hear it when turning sharp or bumpy roads. This is quiet. Only when you feel the chassis flex is when the thump happens
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