I’m wanting to be able to select 4Hi or 4LO and have the system work as designed. I think “auto” would rely on the ABS computer, which I wasn’t planning to keep. I messaged Painless wiring also.
I’m looking at using a 2001 Tahoe as the basis for a project. Does anyone know off the top of their heads what happens when you push the “4wd” button?
I used to have a 2002, but I don’t recall if it had a BCM or any other annoying computers like the newer ones do. What I’m trying to do...
was the old thermostat actually stuck open? I’m still having a hard time imagining GM designing a cooling so efficient that the engine won’t reach operating temperature if the thermostat is stuck open. GM is famous for underengineering things, and I’ve been wrenching on them for over 40 years...
I can’t fathom the thermostat sticking “open” causing the engine to never get to temperature. I think it would get there eventually. In my case, the gauge was showing no movement whatsoever, and I drive 75-80 for half an hour each way to work. I also had hot heat in the cab, so I’m confident...
My 2015 has 174K on it now (I bought it with 120-something) and I’m not having any indication that the AFM system is in distress. I can feel it engage/ disengage on the highway. I don’t think I’d spend the money to tear into this engine to replace them, I’d probably build up a lower mile unit...
The fans running constantly and that code are a sure sign of the Coolant Temp Sensor. Do the thermostat at the same time, its about $60 worth of parts:
Thanks for the reply. WAMS really likes the Denali Clusters, apparently they’re pretty easy to program compared to the others. I’ll send them this ’18 PPV one and see what happens.
Since the 2018-newer PPVs all have the radio controls/ cluster control buttons as standard, is it possible to put a 2018 cluster in my 2015?
I've already added the steering wheel, and the LIN bus circuit from harness dr. (didn't fix the cruise control lights by the way) and the clockspring as...
I'm in the same boat. My 2015 was a K9 truck, so they had butchered the wiring in the rear doors to splice in a remote setup so they could lower the windows if the dog got too hot. I fixed the wiring back to factory, installed rear door panels, etc.
I exhausted this with a former GM...
I would guess the high beams were cut for wig wags at the connectors under the hood. That's where I'd start. I'm glad I was able to help you with the horn! With the issues you've had, it would probably be worth pulling off the front bumper cover and removing the headlights. You're probably...
I'd love to know myself. I'm going on the assumption at the moment that the resistor network triggers a digital signal from the LIN data bus that tells the radio control interface what to do. I'm also assuming that the cluster's with the knob on the front of them don't include the circuitry...
the horn is likely the 6J4 circuit in the center console area upfitter harness. Its a single pair wire that is supposed to loop back on itself. They cut it and run a rocker so they can select either the horn or the HORN (aftermarket). Here's a thread that should be helpful...
Don't expect the aftermarket interface to "see" the "resistor network" of the steering wheel buttons. I'm going down that rabbit hole at the moment with an Alpine head unit and idatalink Maestro interface on my '15 PPV.
Just an update. I changed the clockspring as was suggested, but that hasn't restored the lights to my cruise swith, and the RH cluster control buttons don't light either. So far I've added the Harness Dr. LIN bus circuit and an idatalink Maestro controller for my Alpine stereo. The Maestro...
Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the 2015 PPV steering wheel/ clockspring circuit?
I put a leather wheel with buttons in my truck, the cruise still works, but I've lost my backlighting on the steering wheel. I wasn't expecting the radio buttons or the cluster function buttons to work, and...
The jump seat has provisions under the lid on mine: I had to run the wires up through the console when I reinstalled it (it was included with the truck, but loose in the back when I got it. There's a video on Youtube from Phil Gamboa (harness Dr.) for routing the wires.
If I recall properly, the horn relay is built into the fuse box itself. If the relay is clicking, you've eliminated everything inside the truck and past the fuse, so you'll need to find the brown/ gray wire coming from the fuse box going to the horn and look for a break in it. probe the fuse...
its hard to know what someone before you did. I think the USBs are fed from the factory radio, so that would explain losing those. For safety sake, I'd at least expose the factory body-builder harnesses and make sure they're terminated/ capped off properly.
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