Maybe if you max out the oil intervals, use marginal oil, and a cheap filter, you increase the odds (or rather the time until) of it failing, but it’s an electro/mechanical system—it IS going to fail eventually.
The valley cover bolts directly to the block, no connection to the heads.
The heads have locating dowels to properly align.
The head torque sequence has you torque to a certain number of foot pounds, then you use a torque angle gauge to get to the final torque, but some daring individuals like...
Oh, and the only ‘special’ tool you’ll need is to remove the fuel line.
And you don’t need to remove the valley pan to change the lifters, but you might want to and change the knock sensors while you’re in there. AC Delco parts made it this far—don’t cheap out on parts store knock sensors or...
You will need to remove the heads if you need to change lifters, it do the diagnostics you described first—remove the valve covers and check for play in any other rockets, crank it over and see that all rockers are moving, etc.
What are your oil change intervals, how long since last oil...
I’ve heard there’s some “AC Delco” stuff available online that’s not actually AC Delco. I’m not sure how you would differentiate other than to buy from a reputable seller. If you re-use the metal heat shields there should be no issues with melting wires
If it runs rough until warmed up, a very likely culprit is the intake manifold gasket. Change the knock sensors and their wiring harness while you’re in there also. May not solve all your problems, but very likely will solve one
Check the sensor for 5V and ground at the appropriate pins and if it’s there, check for the signal out. I’m guessing it probably goes to the BCM, but I might be wrong
If the leak truly tracks all the way up to the spark plug area, it’s not just the rear main.
$500 doesn’t seem out of line considering the amount of labor involved.
Edit to add: looks like Iamdub types a lot faster than me.
Also, I just went back and read through and noticed you asked about checking exhaust port temps with the engine warmed up or no. If the engine is warmed up, the manifold can heat soak. You want to check it cold. Each port should heat up at about the same rate. If you have one that doesn’t get...
Yours is doing what—running rough until warmed up and now the CEL is on?
Or brake and ABS lights?
If you have a check engine light, get it scanned for codes and go from there.
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