Haha. Have thick enough skin do I? I know that stupid-axx people tell me its air in the abs without even acknowledging other potential parts, which, I will say, can and do display the same symptoms. Nor read what I've posted. Irrelevant half-axx comments don't help anyone.
Telling me I dont...
It is certainly clear you have not read all the posts. You're not helping, nor do you know what I believe. In not stupid; this is not my first brake work, nor do I pretend to know it all. Thanks, but not.
On my F150 forum they say this is common at 1/4 tank or less due to excess vapors in purge system. Once you get those clear then it will start right up. Different vehicle, yes, but prob similar designs.
Its going to the shop in a couple weeks. The pedal is nice and firm now with the engine off since I swapped the MC.
I've not had air that I couldn't get out via a few bleeds when I've changed hoses/calipers/pads before on my other cars so while it's frustrating I hope its as simple as the scan...
I know what you are saying but also know that this issue was prior to my caliper swap so that in itself can't be blamed. Yes, air rises but its also opposed by gravity and the fluid.
This could also have been a bad booster but its not. It could actually be a bad modulator and not even air from...
No brake light is on. This issue was prior to my caliper swap, but even so, the calipers are downstream from abs so I dont follow how that would even cause an issue like mine.
I would do that if this issue arose after I put in the new MC but this issue was prior so I really feel most if not all of this issue is something else.
After checking the booster with pedal tests and engine cycling it seems to test as it should.
Booster check valve only allows air one way so that's good. I get the big "whoosh" when I pull it after a run cycle. So it holds vacuum.
Vacuum hose has good suction when pulled from the booster with...
After more testing today, you're probably right. But the caliper swap and hose swap etc were an effort in routine maintenance and didn't cause this issue but somehow I got this issue but don't know when or why. I've just decided this issue needs fixing. The new MC did help because the pedal...
I understand your perspective and agree but had to wait since they are in ok shape and I have header bolts to pay a shop to replace and an oil pan leak so just cutting costs.
The calipers were swapped because I couldn't get out the t55 slider bolts.
Looking in to maybe a vacuum issue and...
My 2001 Yukon has a firm pedal when it's not running. It's considerably softer when running. Why?
No known leaks.
New front calipers.
New front brake hoses.
New master cylinder. (This helped a little)
Cycled abs via activating on dirt roads and bled all 4 wheels again.
I really don't think my...
Wiper fixed.
The video Chrisw posted was something I wasn't able to do, but that tailgate top connection on psgr side had a broken wire. Easy find for the shop. Nice to have it working now.
And I "got to pay them" to fix my frosting a/c line that was a little low on Freon and had a bad...
I'm unable to solve this issue. However simple or challenging the solution is, my skills are spent.
The replacement switch didn't fix it.
It's going in to shop. I need a frosty a/c line fixed so will see what the wiper is all about. I need my skills to swap cooling hoses on my pickup....haha...
The wiper switch at the IP has power on orange wire and if its supposed to make its way to the harness when the key is merely in thr on position as a tech stated then he says the switch / fuse is the problem. My fuse is good.
The glass/hatch switches kill power at the motor harness grey wire so...
Electric shop couldn't test motor because unsure which leads needed power and I couldn't fully remember or know the answer either.
Found info online similar situation as mine. Apparently the orange wire needs power(as I understand it) all the time when key is on. I get zero orange power at the...
Let me clarify...the electric shop is a starter alternator rebuilder type of place. They'll bench test it IIRC. Not a shop for full auto Elec repairs. I'm trying to prove the part itself is good or not....then I'm armed with more knowledge if I take the truck in for help.
I didn't do that and not sure how. But the electrical shop I'm going to visit tomorrow should have some answers I'd think. May not test tomorrow but I hope they can get to it soon.
I'm so curious for the final root cause its like solving a game of clue.
I'm just not looking to throw any more parts money at it until I can rule out the motors. Since both are inop I'm that much more confused. Need to have a known good motor or solid analysis of my motors or I have to take to a shop...which I hate.
Might see if an electrical shop can test for me...
Yes, I did hook up the new motor and tried it with just power and not installed and got zero response.
So today I fully installed the new motor and blade is parked in the retainer. No success. Zero response. So I pulled wiper off and still got zero response. And I opened and closed the glass...
Ok. I will pull the arm and try that with the glass tomorrow. The panels are off so inside is wide open. Can't see anything wrong but not sure what to look for but don't find melted wires or the like.
Scratch my head how power and ground exists and nothing happens.
Could the IP switch be the...
Thank you for the replies. It's parked in the retainer piece. I've had the wiper off and everything out when I tried power to the new unit and have since put it all back and wiper is in the retainer and still nothing, regardless of motor. No spindle movement or sound.
Don't just settle with the dealer. If u just settle then do it with/for a private owner who cares about maintenance. Dealers have made a fortune for a few years now on cars....don't add to it.
I had a highlander totaled and wanted either a suburban or pickup and settled on a pickup. Those burbs...
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