I'm in a similar situation....but not meaning to hijack this thread.
2001 Yukon 5.3 sle
I get 11.8v or so at the harness. Motor inop. Rear defrost works. The window and gate latches seem to work fine in that voltage stops when those are opened and returns when closed. So those switches seem ok...
Check your battery connections and grounds. And the MAF.
My experience is top post batteries are prone to issues. My truck has side post mount and so far no issues I'm aware of. Corrosion may look "ahhh just a little hint" but actually stops voltage. Found that out on my lawn tractor. Ever...
After learning the benefits and the mess of pulling the lwr hose I still do that. I've always wondered if drain valves would reseal properly and the hose is easy to be sure it seals.
What a mess it makes draining. Hate that.
Please know I meant no harm in stating that I chose not to use dex. I never stated not to use it but only that user accounts raised way too much concern that $25 could easily totally eliminate.
When I got my yukon I didnt know what was in it but assumed dex and didn't know for how long...
It appears you have much frustration with opposing dexcool perspectives and that's ok.
I am sure you also will oppose those who don't buy into "lifetime" fluids and that's ok.
I am sure you will nit believe me when I say that software is used to predict end of life and failure cycles in...
Well I would agree that mixing of the coolant was an issue but I would also say the decision I made was after hours of reading on many different sites and many accounts of life experience and chemistry. GM is a profit center and we must not buy into the line that everything they say, make, or...
I drain/fill my cars every 2 yrs regardless. No 100k miles infinite life fluids for me.
Acid state appears to be what kills cooling systems (major stuff, not rad) and regular changes prevents that. Im cool with $30 every 2 yrs.
I use peak global lifetime. I've read in a number of places that air causes dexcool to gel up. Maybe chemistry has changed over the years but my risk tolerance has not.
And your 4x2 is exactly what I have thinking of getting from TX or GA or similar. No rust. No 4wd system. I live in snow belt but hardly ever put my yukon in 4wd anyway.
Just like Scotty Kilmer says: if u don't NEED it don't spend $ on it.
At 232k miles mine needs an oil pan gasket and valley and maybe another gasket. But it's only a drip and maybe next year I can do them....but the pan on a 4x4 is maybe outside my skill set.
Its been oozing for 50k miles. I hate it but for such non threatening issues I for now will ride it...
Do u mean "rounding" the nut? As in its not hex-shaped anymore?
My 2001 has nuts on both ends, but I would spray the connection liberally with pb blaster or some other excellent product. Let it soak.
And depending on what wrench u are using you may need a better fitting one. Like a flare wrench.
My indicator mjst be broken. Never moves from "bad" even after a new filter, which I install every 12000 miles.
Had oil analysis done on my car before and after air filter replaced. Huge diff. The old one didnt look bad but the lab found issues that they said was prob dirty air filter. Next...
What Seems to work for me is to crack open and final tightening with a deep well socket. No rounding of the screw. And pb blaster if looks rusty.
But...I ALWAYS liberally coat the threads with grease when done. I'm in rust areas. Once my hands have been on that screw it has never seized on me...
Why did the speed bleeders suck? Was thinking of getting 1 or 4 and do a temp install for bleeding or a permanent install of them.
Curious of your experience.
It seems to me either this ^^ or a bad therm but since this is supposedly all he messed with then I don't see how other parts would be the likely culprit.
Like stated, air seems likely.
Uneven wear on brand new pads in no time at all and few miles....and smoke...
And the techs that are supposedly trained don't replace the caliper after the return from new install?
Sometimes I feel dumb...sometimes I feel way to smart.
That tech was not thinking or completely ignorant...
Cant he loosen and lube the threads with some sort of approved lube and reseat and try that? I'm not talking a thread sealer but something that might help the threads mate more smoothly. Maybe he's got some rougher threads that are binding.
Just a thought.
With an issue so debated online then my default answer is to change the oil more often than they recommend and that in itself is probably a better indicator of life expectancy than whether or not the additive is in the oil.
Considering professionals disagree then there truly may not be a right...
I got mine last year and I can have it show dining or fuel or whatever I want in real time. Shows them on my route or I can have it show me, for ex., each Wendys and how far, etc. Or the next rest stop, etc. It's awesome.
Buy/bring a Garmin gps. Runs off satellite instead of towers.....rural areas are issues for cell signals.
And....imo its far better than silly phone app for gps.
Oh yeah baby...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.