Well everything's back together but 4wd is having an issue. Most of the time when I go to engage it, it makes this clank noise as shown in the video. And its sometmes not wanting to shift to and out of 4wd. I put those 2 washers in, tried flattening them the best I could but they aren't...
Getting the front diff back in was a PIA, decided to put in the diff before the right axle shaft housing and it was a very hard fit, got it in tho
Have a feeling its gonna leak in between the diff and the axle shaft housing as I just put some rtv around it and it was not very good bead of rtv...
Theres must be 2 different styles of these axles. The first video I linked is different than mine, it has a giant snap ring up top, where as mine just had a little clip like in the second video. Also seems in the first one they dont have the second washer that mine has.
Video that mine is NOT...
Forgot to post an important update actually today! Got the pickup tube oring in, new pan gasket and used an acdelco filter, she now idles warm at around 38psi of oil pressure, compared to 20-27 before! And at 1.5k rpm it has around 50psi of pressure compared to the 35 before!
I'm working the right axle shaft, replacing the seal. Didnt realize there was a lock ring on it and started trying to hammer the shaft out of the housing which bent the 2 washers.
Hahaha
I asked a question on the other one that was posted, it looks more like it. If that doesn't work then junkyard may be my best bet.
How bad to you think it would be to use the washers that are slightly bent?
So I'm putting the axle seal in and I accidently bent the 2 washers that are below the snap ring? I found one of them, the one with the 2 grooves, but the other one I'm having a hard time finding.
Anyone know what the other one called?
Heres the one I cant find.
Here is a picture of my old o ring, definitely pretty flat.
There was some concern online about the felpro replacement I bought being too big for the tube, but side by side the old and new look almost identical.
Also read that the felpro is made for the recessed design, which is what I have.
I may just remove the castle nut and cotter pin on that and the idler arm and also remove the tie rods, which will clear a ton of room. I was able to battle it out without removing anything but I have a feeling trying to brute strength it back in is going to be even more difficult and tiring.
Just thinking about putting the differential back on after I'm done with everything, I'm considering just removing the whole steering linkage that goes through it, the tie rods, idler arm and pitman arm bolts. It would make it juristically easier to get in.
I did not! It was VERY, VERY tight to get out, lots of choice 4 lettered words came out of my mouth. The key was turning the steering wheel all the way to the right, that allowed just enough clearance to maneuver it around enough for it to come out.
Thanks for the insight! I'm hoping the o ring is the problem for me, I'll find out in the next week or so once my parts are here! Let me know how the oil pressure is once you get it started!
Front diff is hanging on by one bolt, the top one! Going to finish dropping it and maneuvering it out tomorrow, as I ran out of time and have an obligation to be at today.
Do yall think when I drop it out it'll pour oil all over? I didn't drain it and I do have a small right axle leak.
If I get my front differential off, wouldn't I technically be safe to drive still if I kept my cv axles on with the axle nut and bungee cord the other side so they're not flopping around? Just so I can get part of the job done while waiting for parts but can still have my vehicle to drive.
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