I recently bought 22"s and they ride well, as well as the factory 20"s. But for the look, wish I'd bought 24"s. Then again, 24"s don't look right to me without a drop.
Well the results are in.
13.3mpg with 87-octane
14.0mpg with 93-octane
It gave me about an extra 15 miles per tank, which isn't enough to convince me its worth it (that small amount could be statistical error). I did think the trunk ran smoother on 93-octane, but that could've been in my...
If you're aftermarket, poor-quality suspension components have seen an additional 108k miles I'd bet they are toast as well. If I was you I'd replace upper and lower control arms and outer tie-rod ends, all with MOOG or AC Delco Professional (or OEM) parts.
Ugh the stupid side moldings. I like the look of them, they break up the flatness of the door so they help hide small dents. But mine are pulling off and starting to look ratty. I don't think they'll stay down if I just retape them.
I did the same thing. Bought my bolts on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Non-OEM-Substitute-for-GM-11518341-Bolt-Qty-4-Free-Shipping/143650157085?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
It’s definitely unusually that the rears brakes wear so much faster than the fronts. I wonder if anyone has changed the bias to a more conventional 70:30 and seen any improvement in braking?
In my opinion, unless you have a ball joint press at home, it's more efficient to replace the whole arms. At 150k miles my ball joints AND the arm bushings were toast -- again reinforcing that replacing the whole arm makes more sense. The MOOG arms are pretty cheap and great quality too.
If the bolts are broken below the manifold (which the usually are), you don't have to touch them. If they are sticking out a big past the manifold, you have to knock then down with a Dremel or grinder.
I need this too. My driver’s door can sound nasty if I don’t lube it every few months. But I heard replacing them involves taking the whole door off? Seems like too much work for me!
Sorry for that, the trans temp is getting up to 205. Haven't seen it go over that, but from all the reading I've gone on various forums most people stay under 200 when unloaded.
It's hot here in Maryland, right around 100F. While driving for 30+ minutes, with NO load, I'm reaching trans temps of 205F. Is it time for a transmission cooler? The transmission shifts great and I had it flushed / filter changed recently.
I’ve looked through all the renderings of custom ‘21 Tahoes here. Lifted, big rims, tires, fenders.
It’s just putting lipstick on a pig. The front end is ugly as hell no matter what you do with the rest. Someone here said the rear is very “generic” — couldn’t have said it better. It looks...
Wanted to update this thread and provide some closure.
I bought one of those clamps and put it on the front area of the manifold (where one of the broken bolts was, and where I felt the noise was coming from). The ticking was immediately gone on cold start - I've now verified it 5 times. I was...
I bought the keys and fobs on ebay. <$10 for both. Had Home Depot cut the keys for $4. Programmed them myself, and for <$14 I have two spare keys and fobs.
Well sometimes when I'm wrong, I'm wrong. I'm still not sure where it's coming from, but I definitely have a broken bolt on either end.
Is there any downside to just leaving them broken? I can deal with the ticking noise as long as my engine isn't going to grenade.
So I listened very carefully, and I am 99% sure it's the lifters and not the exhaust manifold.
The tick is pretty apparent until the truck warms up, at which point it dissapears. By "warms up" I mean at least a few minutes driving. Am I doing a lot of damage by driving it like this?
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