If it's 4 wheel disk it is likely he has drum in hat parking brake which will do nothing to isolate a front/rear brake ussue...I'm curious...have the tie rod ends and ball joints been inspected?...
Voltage drop your battery cables...these are notorious for micro corrosion where the cable ends are swaged onto the cables at the battery...a simple fix is sweating solder into the cable ends...you might try wiggling the cables at the swages while trying to crank...the light loads on the cables...
Great reply...actually, excessive runout causes a low brake pedal due to increased pedal travel to displace enough fluid to push the caliper piston farther than designed to apply the brakes...
A long term effect of excessive rotor runout causes a thickness variation which results in a brake...
i'm glad you found a solution and at the same time sorry you had to endure some of the responses...
the machine shop didnt "jack" anything as the op's runout measurements indicated...and rotors do not "warp" when hot then return to next to no runout cold...
a likely possibility is the rotors...
I havent reviewed the entire thread so i dont know if it has been addressed...the oem part at rock auto may not be a factory part...it is a common misconception...
also...the aftermarket part installed previously may have had a lifetime warranty...you should check with the installer if they did...
what you were experiencing is called diode ripple...an alternating current leak through the diodes...with a description of your concern the alternator should have been exchanged the first time you brought it in...
the diodes change alternating current to direct current to operate your...
it is not necessary to pull fuses and that can lead you on a wild goose chase if one circuit effects another (eg retained accessory power)...if you place a voltmeter across the terminals on the fuse it will read a very small voltage drop across the fuse if the circuit is active...this gives you...
are you waiting long enough for all the modules to go to sleep before determining parasytic draw?...and you should not disconnect the battery until the meter is attached so there is no interruption in power...a digital voltmeter across fuse terminals will show a voltage drop if a circuit is...
tis sounds very much like an aftermarket chemical company service plan deal...companies like BG and WYNNS have deals where mulitple services are performed on a vehicle with their chemicals they will cover the components for extended periods...you might want to check on that...the dealer should...
Disable your fuel pump and voltage drop your battery cables while cranking...both positive and negative...you have an intermittent connection somewhere and that's the place to start...also measure voltage at the battery during cranking to be sure it isn't dropping below an acceptable level ro...
for what its worth...here is a great video showing how to use the old speakers to make adapters for new in the doors...i used it for a set of infinity kappas and it worked great...i would suggest to use a pair of tin snips instead of the dremel to cut the rim off...its faster and no mess...
connection...connection...connection...if the alternator is charging you can take the battery out of the equation and the engine will continue running...not recommended...but true...youve got an intermittent connection somewhere or a module that is playing hide and go seek with you...or an...
sounds like suspension but i wouldnt rule out a sticking driveshaft slip joint at the trans either...something like that normally wont change trajectory but if it is binding it can create a torque condition....remove the driveshaft and grease the splines...
i would be concentrating on...
the modules in a vehicle can take up to 45 minutes or longer to shut down when performing a draw test...disconnecting the cables can shut off a potential draw and make it hard to find also...a shunt should be installed that can allow the vehicle to be operated and all accessories engaged then...
the failure was beyond the filter...fluid flows from the converter to other parts of the transmission before returning to the pan...metal in the oil stream gets into a lot of things wish it wouldnt...once it gets to the pan the filter keeps it from going back in but the damage is already done...
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