Had the exact same issue with mine and a Left handed drill bit backed it out within 30 seconds. Threads were clean and clear, the bit grabbed and it came right out.
I'm also interested in what tool you used, I'm going to be doing this soon. I was looking at this one, but any advice would be appreciated.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0876N4VM8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_35SYJHJ9Q7YRDMWHQ8VP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Well no dice. Took it all apart, cleaned a couple suspect solders and dielectric greased all connectors. Still squealing. Looks like a new unit from Amazon eventually.
Edit: new used unit from a member cleared it up.
I know this is common, and I can make it stop by turning off the RSE but is there any way to repair the unit? I have taken it out and applied dielectric grease to the connector but that did nothing. It started out only happening when it was cold out but now it's all the time.
Before I drop...
Hard to explain, but I hooked one end to the fender and the other to the alternator bracket. Cranked the strap with the old mount out a few times to gain a couple inches of clearance to sneak the new DS mount in.
Same for the other side, just found a secure place to hook the strap.
2x6 on a floor jack worked for me. I also used a ratchet strap across the engine bay to leverage the engine one way or the other to gain a little more clearance.
I flew to Minneapolis from Southern Indiana for my 09 2500 and I paid 13k for a LT with 215k 2 years ago. They're out there if you're willing to travel. I didn't know there was a 2500 FB page, have to check that out.
There is another fleet wholesaler out of Chicago IIRC that had some decent...
Left hand drill bit for the win on the manifold bolt. It'll be harder now with a broken off easy out but may still be doable.
Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
You will know that trailer is back there for sure. I towed a 29' Sunnybrook with a GVWR of 10k with my 00 Yukon XL 2500 3.73. Did it pull it? Yes. Was it fun? Not really. Short trips on local roads/state highways were fine. Interstate trips sucked.
You will be limited in your 07 by the 4...
Buddy of mine bought these for his 94 K2500. Bolt pattern is the same as your 12 Suburban 2500, as far as I know the Suburbans/Yukon XLs did not go metric in 2011...
2009 Suburban K2500 6.0.
I'm accumulating parts for a mild cam swap this fall and since my 6.0 has 240k "while I'm in there" it's getting an oil pump. I'm already planning on at least the Melling 295HV but my question is would the 10296 HP/HV pump be any better? I currently have ~25psi hot...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-and-Rear-Drill-Slot-Brake-Rotors-and-Metallic-Pads-For-Silverado-Suburban-/402105924818
Brakemotive.
I used these on my 09 K2500 Suburban as well as my 01 K2500 Yukon. Great quality and they flat out work.
Some say they are just private label Powerstop, and...
This. I converted my 00 2500 Yukon to efans to keep the aircon cold for the family during the summer. Towing heavy in the mountains they couldn't keep up vs my buddy in a 02 2500 Yukon 8.1 with clutch fan who had no issues.
I'm keeping the clutch fan in my 09 2500 Suburban.
For you I would...
Huskys here. They replaced the front liners under lifetime warranty when the driver side started to curl. I have full liners minus the cargo area and love them.
Couple hours total with a break for dinner and a little league game.
The aux tank pump? No idea. I only replaced this one because BBP said it wasn't keeping up at higher RPM. It still works just surface rusty on top.
Got it done in a couple hours yesterday with breaks for dinner and a little league game. Turns out someone had been in there before, pulled out an Airtex pump dated 2013. So in effect the Airtex lasted longer than OEM... and it still works just doesn't keep up at high rpm anymore.
Good to know...
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