Bi Directional Scanner. You will be able to look at fuel trims as well as alcohol fuel %
These flex fuel engines use "virtual" info calculated by the O2 sensors... and it sucks !!
They get out of whack sometimes and cause all sorts of weird issues.
I disable the flex fuel on the tunes I do...
Don't know what year you have, etc
But try a fuel trim re learn/reset procedure esp if it is flex fuel
and maybe try a higher grade of gasoline as well
Left Tail Light housing on my denali has moisture in it.... Both tail lights are in excellent condition
so I don't want to have to buy a new aftermarket unit.
Any tips or tricks to get out the moisture without ruining the housing ????
Stock fan settings in HP tables kick ON the low speed fans
at about 216. Then High Speed ON at around 224
The problem is that they still keep the low on until
it's around 196 at a small percent. so it has to drop to Zero %
to turn all the way off. I have modified settings.. way better than...
The heater hose
that "Y's" out down by the thermostat housing has a
good replacement for it as well. it has a metal Y instead of the factory
plastic one... Another failure point on our "oldish" vehicles.
I like gates stuff. But OE is fine and other brands too. Just use what's
convenient...
Definitely need a real alcohol sensor to run E85 (which is usually e70)..
These virtual fuel sensors that just use the O2's are so bad... I always reset
them whenever I'm doing work as they are usually very wrong
I was thinking about getting a real alch sensor on mine so I could run E every
once...
SC was great for daily as I still had stock camshaft with DOD turned off...
It does produce more heat - and the intercooler blocks air coming into the
radiator/condensor. I upgraded my radiator to the big alum and did headers at
the same time. It certainly hauled ass and low rpm power was...
Before it was 17-18 mph hwy. 10-13 city. 10mph towing
After 14-15 hwy. 10-12 city . 4.5-5.5 mph towing.. yeah that bad
Took off the sc. Did a dod delete vvt cam and some cyl head massaging.
About 17 ish hwy now. 10-13 city. 9-10 towing. And a lot less heat
At that mileage I would NOT supercharge/force induction your engine.
No matter how well it runs/performs now
That's a lot of stress on your pistons/rings/ringlands
and your connecting rods & bearings.
For that kinda money you can do lots of other stuff and be happier.
Plus you'll need to...
The VLOM contains the deactivation solenoids for the cylinder deactivation
And that's the connector for it at the rear of the intake...
I would think you'd still have it connected as the diablosport just
prevents it from going into the afm/dod mode. And I would think that with
it...
The OE fans use just a high or low ON setting and both fans are always
low/high/off together as a pair....
I thought the bcm sent a NEGATIVE signal to actuate the fans....I'm not sure though.
So I'll follow along on this
Thanks for the extra info swathdiver
The UJoints I purchased and am going to use on my rear driveshaft
are a 1350 series U Joint. IDK if the 1355 you mentioned is the same or not.
I don't think I've ever used a 1355 series
To update some info: I talked (finally) in person to a reputable driveshaft
shop that does custom/racing/hotrod shafts.
I described what I've got now and what would be needed to upgrade or
prevent a future issue.
My current driveshaft is approx 55" from UJoint center to UJoint Center and...
I'm pretty sure that one won't fit. Esp with having the preload bolts.
You really should not need anything extra with your 14 bolt.. It's way stronger
than the AWD 10 bolt rear ends .
Just change the fluid more often.. Yeah it 's messy !!!
I purchased a similar one for my 8.6" 10 bolt rear. The company offered
the standard one and a low profile one too. So I did the low pro one.
It did NOT fit... But I have larger aftermarket sway bars...
You might do some more searching to see if a low profile one is made.
I don't remember...
Yes. Change it after the break in procedure. Some diffs like having the extra
limited slip additive in addition to being a GL-5 Spec.. Make sure your valvoline
is a GL-5. I have both on the shelf. Don't assume because it's synthetic that it's
GL5 and has enough limited slip additive for...
Add a bottle of limited slip to it
Did you break it in ??? Needs to be driven slowly
in a wide figure 8 pattern several times. Then let it cool.
Then take it on a 15 drive and then let it cool.
Then change the gear oil in it (add limited slip additive if your
synthetic gear lube doesn't...
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